Africa March 2018: Itinerary & Favorite Photos

Travel dates for this trip were March 6-March 20.  Itinerary and accommodations are as follows (number in parenthesis is the number of nights stayed at the lodging).

For my eighth trip to Kenya, I blended part of the trip traveling over land with my guide Daniel who has accompanied me on 3 other safaris.  Then, to save my back from the bumpy roads, I flew from Meru back to Wilson in Nairobi and then out and back to the Mara.  I chose a new area to visit, Meru National Park (more below) and a new tented camp, Basecamp Eagle View.  Although these dates were almost identical to last year’s trip, the weather was very different.  The rains came early this year.  With only one day before leaving the states, I was notified that my camp I had planned to stay in for five nights (Offbeat Mara), had to close due to flooding.  My tour operator, Amazing Memories Safaris did an incredible job of suggesting a couple of other options of places to stay and made the switch.  Already thinking of my next adventure.

Top Photo Picks

Maktao – My Newest Elephant Chubbie

My ‘herd’ increased on this trip.  You can read all about Maktao here https://laurenajenkinshoffmeyer.com/laurena/my-elephant-chubbies/#toc-5

Nairobi – The Fairview Hotel (2)

This was my third stay at the Fairview.  On this stay, I was in Room 18, a great location, just at the top of the steps in the main building.  It is a smaller room but has a comfy double bed, bathroom with a shower (no tub) and plenty of fluffy towels.   I really appreciate that there is a desk, fast wi fi, fan, and a comfy regular chair.  What would be really nice would be a comfortable chair for the desk to sit and work for any length of time.  The windows have screens which was nice to let in some fresh air for sleeping.  I did see quite a few mosquitoes in the room, maybe due to the recent rains.  As always, staff are welcoming, no matter what time you arrive.  The breakfast buffet is fantastic with a great variety.  This is my preferred place to stay while in Nairobi.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy – Sweetwaters (2)

This was my fifth stay at Sweetwaters.  When booking this camp with my Tour Operator, I requested tent #1 or #2 which is right on the water hole.  The only time I have not stayed in these tents, is when I was traveling with another person and needed a tent with two single beds.  Confirmation for tent #1 was made and reconfirmed by Amazing Memories Safaris since Anne knew this was important to me.  When I checked in, I was told I had been “upgraded” to the newer wing because two school buses of children were occupying the area I was supposed to be in.  I let them know I was not happy, especially since my tour operator was never informed.  Typically, when the animals come to the water hole, they don’t come anywhere near these newer tents (I’ve walked the camp many times).  Once again, this was the case.  The animals that did come, were by Tents 1-7, but didn’t stay long as the children scared them off.

Since the children were leaving the next morning, I asked that I be moved to Tent #1 for my second night.  Once the tent had been cleaned, my belongings were transferred.  There was a bit of an electrical issue in Tent#1 this trip.  After I returned from my afternoon game drive, I went to turn on the desk lamp.  Next thing I knew, I was on the floor having received a heavy shock (240 volts) from bare wires on the cord.  I can only imagine what would have happened to a child if they had touched it.  I went to the receptionist and mentioned it.  They sent a maintenance guy out to repair it.  Later, I noticed similar exposed wire where the lamp plug was plugged into the power strip.  Maintenance may want to look at these connections in all tents.

Tent #1 not only has the best spot right on the water hole, but you can easily sit on your porch or even at the desk inside with the tent flaps open and watch/photograph the birds.  I can see why some guests would prefer to stay in the newer tents.  They are beautifully furnished.  But for me, the other side puts you much closer to the wildlife.

My last stay here was in October, 2015.  I was pleasantly surprised to see that James, the dining room manager, was still here as well as Harrison and Anne, who I knew from previous stays.  Their memories are amazing.  I truly enjoyed the conversations I had with them.

Meru National Park – Ikweta (3)

I first have to comment about Meru National Park.  I chose this park since I like to experience one new area each trip.  I had read that animals here can be more challenging to spot, so I decided to stay three nights.  It is one of the least visited parks and I can see why.  If this is your first safari, you would most likely be excited seeing giraffes, elephants, gazelles and the typical safari animals.  As a photographer, and having visited many of the other parks in Kenya, this park does not work for me.  The animals are not used to vehicles.  Therefore, when you see something, and creep slowly to a stop, the wildlife immediately run off.  My guide had absolutely no problem spotting wildlife, but capturing images was a real problem.  I would not return to this area.

I chose Ikweta Safari Camp for my stay at Meru.  It is located just outside the gates of the park.  Within the park, there are only two other lodges, both extremely expensive.  Ikweta provides affordable safari luxury.  Upon arrival, I was greeted with a wonderful, cold glass of lime juice, grenadine syrup and sparkling water.  A real refresher after the long drive.

I stayed in Tent 1 (Zebra Tent) for 3 nights.  I knew in advance that it could be warm at Meru, but it was uncomfortably warm with only a small breeze.  Tents are large with a desk, safe (a deposit is required so you return the key), separate bathroom with flush toilet, shower and sink.  Regarding hot water for the shower, this was the biggest challenge I faced at this camp.  I was instructed to turn on the cold water in the sink and let it run “about 15 minutes” to free the lines of cold water.   Dusty and warm from the long road trip, I decided to take a shower at 3pm.  I let the water run for 30 minutes with no sign of hot water showing up.  I returned to the receptionist who followed me to the tent.  He had to contact someone who had to open a valve to let the warm water flow in after the cold water was purged.  Apparently they do this all the time.  Being so warm here, I like a quick rinse before sleeping and possibly, a quick rinse in the morning to wake me up.  I was told to “just let them know” when I needed the water.  Apparently, they can’t just leave the valve open because the hot water would drain away.  Finding someone at 5:30am in the dark to let them know you wanted hot water would be a challenge.  Although it did cool down somewhat over night (from the 89 degree tent temperature at 4pm to 75 degrees by 5:30am), even with all the curtains open (good screens), it was quite warm for sleeping.  My suggestion is that since they have power in the rooms all night, a small desk fan would vastly improve sleeping, and even day time if you wished to take a nap.

The main area is the reception, lounge with tv, books to look at, bar, dining and wi fi area.  Wi fi is only available in the pool area and in the main lounge.  In order to use it, they have to obtain the security passwords from ‘somewhere’ which took quite a while.  Since I arrived close to lunch, they came pretty quickly to tell me the planned menu.  Prior to all meals, they let you know what the menu was which I thought was a nice touch.  My tour operator mentioned I didn’t eat seafood and have a cinnamon allergy.  The receptionist seem to know that.  Lunch was a nice coleslaw salad, main entry was a pasta with cheese and light sauce and there was ice cream for dessert.  Overall, I would say the food was pretty good.  Lunch was usually pasta and salad and there was a variety at dinner.

I had read on Trip Advisor some comments regarding the staff.  I felt the staff were friendly, but often not engaging with the guests.  For instance, when you walk into the dining tent and just sit down to use the wi fi or prior to a meal, it would have been nice had someone said hello and can I get you anything.  Often, they were engaged with each other, but not necessarily the guests.

During my stay, the first night there was another occupied tent.  The remainder of the time, I was the only guest there.  Sometimes it was difficult to get the staff to understand what I was asking for.  We were headed out at 6am for the park (since it is nice and cool at that time).  We requested a box breakfast to carry.  I don’t like to be wasteful of food so I’ve usually just mentioned what I would typically eat.  I requested corn flakes, yogurt, hard-boiled egg, fruit juice and water.  What I got was corn flakes, hot milk, no yogurt, hard boiled eggs, some fresh fruit, no juice and water.  We requested the boxes be ready at 6am for departure.  We got them at 6:20am.  The next day, the box breakfast was more accurate.

I met the camp owners, Susan and John, my first afternoon while relaxing in the lounge.  They are very pleasant.  Susan would make it a point to stop by at dinner to see how everything was going.  It was interesting to hear how they settled there and about the local area and their gardens.  They have done a great job at creating “affordable luxury” close to the park gate.

Naboisho Conservancy – Basecamp Eagle View (5)

After a short flight from Nairobi to the Ol Seki airstrip in the Naboisho Conservancy, Amos from Eagle View met our flight.  Two other passengers were headed to the Wilderness Camp and I was headed to Eagle View.  We had a game drive on the way and I was excited in such a short time to see a variety of wildlife including a cheetah as well as a pride of lions.  Upon arrival at the camp, I was met by welcoming staff including Camp Manager Alphonce who gave me a thorough overview of the facilities while we looked over the spectacular view of a natural waterhole with salt lick in the valley below.

For my stay, I was in tent #5 which is a family tent.  It is just a short walk from the main area.  The tent was very large, elevated on stilts to give you a good view of the valley below.  The bathroom area had double sinks with an inside shower as well as an outside shower.  There is a smaller tent connected by a private walkway to the main tent.  It appeared that if there was a family, someone else could be in that tent, and walk over to the main tent as there was a zippered screen door leading into the bathroom of the main tent.  The hot water is run by a solar system.  If there is sun, there is plenty of hot water.  If very overcast, which it can be in March, the water at times could be tepid.  Towels are provided but if you like a wash cloth, mention it to them and they are happy to furnish.    We all have our likes/dislikes about beds.  With arthritis in my lower back, the bed was somewhat uncomfortable (too hard).  I prefer a full size bed, but after two nights, I slept on the small extra bed in the room which was more comfortable for me.  I never saw anyone from housekeeping, but every time I left and came back, the room was all made up and towels replaced as necessary.  Tents have an abundance of plugs to charge camera batteries, etc. and good lighting.

Dining is in the main area where there is a beautiful view of the valley below.  All meals are served, not buffet.  They are very accommodating to dietary restrictions.  Each meal, the servers would come and tell you what was being served and to ask if that was ok.  Overall, I found their food to be very good.  James, the server I saw the most, was particularly attentive.  One night lamb was served which I don’t care for, so I just had vegetables (which were fresh and excellent).   In the dining/lounge/bar area, free wi-fi is available.  It is only available in this area.  It is quite fast unless it is really cloudy which I’ve found is common in the bush.

When it is dark outside (early morning and dinner time), you are escorted to the main area from your tent.  I can see why.  One evening, after dinner, as we approached my tent,  there were several elephants enjoying the brush just down the hill from my tent.  I peeked out my windows in the darkness of the early morning and they were still out there.  The next morning, several cape buffalo were enjoying the grasses.  One afternoon, two zebras came right near the steps to the tent until they realized I was sitting there and then they scurried off.

I got a bit of surprise on my last full day.  After the first morning game drive, I was assigned a great guide, Derrick, who I was told would be with me exclusively the remainder of my stay (which was 5 nights).  When we came back for breakfast on the morning of that last full day (and sometimes after breakfast we’d go back out), he told me he was leaving for a different camp and in the afternoon, I’d be with another guide as well two other couples staying at the camp.  That was fine but at lunch I was told that instead of going out at 3/3:30pm like usual, we were leaving at 5pm and doing a night game drive.  With a 17 hour flight the next day, I did not want to stay out late or have dinner late after returning from the night drive.  I mentioned this to the person on duty.  We went out at 5:20pm (in a downpour) but I was dropped back at the camp at 7:30pm and the others continued on.  So my last full day was spent hanging out at the camp from 8:30am-5:20pm instead of enjoying/photographing wildlife.  I was also hoping that during my 5 night stay, we might go into the main reserve and look for the Coalition of Five (cheetahs) that are often spotted.  Derrick mentioned there might be an additional fee which was fine.  I don’t know if there was someone else I needed to mention it to, but it never did happen which was disappointing.

Although I did not initially book Eagle View, I enjoyed my stay.  Originally, I was to stay at Offbeat Mara as I had last year.  But the day before I was to leave home, my tour operator was informed that they could no longer host me as their camp had flooded.  Luckily, Anne, at Amazing Memories Safaris was able to find me this  new place to stay.  I definitely would stay again at Eagle View (which is owned by Basecamp).  It sits up on a high bluff in the Naboisho Conservancy and has the largest population of lions I’ve seen in 8 trips to Kenya.  The staff and guides do a great job at making your visit memorable.

Nairobi – Eka Hotel – Dayroom

Once again for this trip, I chose to stay at the Eka Hotel for a day room.  Staff were extremely nice and helpful.  They again gave me the email address for the front desk so I could print my boarding pass which was very helpful.  After it printed, it was delivered to my room.. 

Anne from Amazing Memories asked if my check out time could be 7pm when she booked the room, instead of the customary 6pm since my flight was at midnight.  Upon check in, she asked if 7:30pm was possible and they said it was not a problem.  That really helped a lot.  Once in the room, the ac is adjustable and was nice to have while repacking everything.  Wi Fi was very fast.  The rain shower was wonderful.  They provide an assortment of complimentary toiletries as well as a pot for making tea or coffee along with packaged cookies.

The hotel is nice in that it is close to the international airport.  My room was on the Garden Level which was great because it was a lot quieter.  If you book an overnight room, request one on the back side of the hotel away from the traffic.

I enjoyed dinner at Spurs which is in the hotel.  The food I ordered (an oversized cheeseburger with onion rings, French fries and a coke) was very good and reasonably priced (950 KES).  Being somewhat deprived of chocolate desserts on this trip, I tried their brownie with ice cream.  It was very good and too much to eat.  It could easily be shared by two people.  On this stay, service was much faster than last time.  I suspect this may have been because it was a weekday.

Traveling with Amazing Memories Safaris

Amazing Memories Safaris has become to me like an extension of my family (all positive).    Anne and Joseph are a wonderful couple whose skills complement each other to make sure no detail is missed.  I had such a pleasant experience with them in March, 2017 that there was no question about choosing them again and no need to get additional quotes because their pricing is very fair.

Even though this was my eighth trip to Kenya, there are always a few questions that come up.  Anne is prompt to respond with the answers.  I had chosen my own itinerary and lodging for this trip.  But we got a big curve ball the day before I was to leave the states.  Anne notified me that the camp where I was to stay five nights (Offbeat Mara – where I stayed last year) had been flooded and they told her I would have to find other accommodations.  Anne immediately sent me an email to let me know.  I felt a panic.  She suggested two other places for me to consider that were comparable prices.  I looked at their reviews, got back to her with my choice, and she immediately confirmed my new lodging.  Offbeat had a special offer of getting one night free when paying for three.  Unfortunately, Eagle View did not offer this.  When the change was made, Anne informed me that Amazing Memories would take care of that added cost.  Thanks to her quick action, it all worked out.

On arrival into Nairobi, Anne, Joseph, and another Joseph (my Nairobi guide) were there to greet me with big hugs and smiles.  After the long flights and the late hour, it is so nice to see such welcoming people waiting.   The trip to the Fairview Hotel was short and they made sure everything was perfect on check in.  We discussed my arrangements for the next day for my pick up time by Joseph in order to do some shopping and visit my elephants at the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust both for the 11am public visit as well at the adoptive parent visit at 5pm.

After the evening elephant visit, Joseph and I met Anne and Joseph at the Carnivore restaurant where I was treated to a lovely dinner and great conversation.  Such a special time.

Joseph N., my Nairobi guide, that I first met in 2014, is amazing at navigating the traffic in Nairobi.  His pleasant personality and sense of humor go a long way to making you feel at home.

Communication with the camps was perfect.  On arrival, they all knew I preferred a tent with a full size bed and what my dietary requirements were.

As a photographer, my guide Daniel, who I have traveled with 4 times, is a real gem.  He is an excellent spotter, even in challenging situations.  As a photographer himself, he knows how to position the vehicle to get the best shots.  He’s a great conversationalist, and always fun to travel with.

When arriving back into Wilson from Meru, I changed airlines.  Joseph, my Nairobi driver, was waiting for me to assist with the transfer.  There was a three hour layover between the flights so I was taken to Aero Club to enjoy lunch.  The food there was very good.

On my final day in Kenya, Anne met me at Wilson after my flight from the Mara, with driver Joseph.  She wanted to know how everything went, especially at Eagle View which was not my initial choice.  All went fantastic.  She was also able to extend the Eka hotel regular day room check out time from 6pm to 7:30pm which really was nice and gave me time to repack and have some food before I was taken to the airport for my midnight flight.

I can’t say enough good things about Amazing Memories Safaris.  They are extremely professional, going above and beyond to make sure every part of your trip expectations are met perfectly.  They are much more than a tour operator.  Their warm, welcoming hospitality is yet another reason why I return to Kenya over and over.

The Best of the Trip

My visit to Kenya would not be complete without two great visits to The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (public time and adoptive parent time).  I thoroughly enjoyed getting to talk to Edwin, their head keeper again as well as keepers Cheplin and Julius.  My ellie Malkia has really grown since I saw her in March, 2017.   I suspect by my next visit, she will have been relocated to her next stage of reintroduction into the wild.  That is always a good thing.  I always like to support at least one at the Nairobi location so I adopted Maktao during this trip.  He is an affectionate male born in April, 2017.

Having lots of wonderful conversations with Anne and Joseph of Amazing Memories Safaris along with Joseph 2014 and Daniel.  So thankful to have met each and every one of them.

While at Sweetwaters, I stopped by the enclosures that house the three remaining Northern White Rhinos (1 male and 2 females).  I was able to see all three of them in the pasture.  Sudan, the male, who had been in failing health, was resting in the sunshine.  Sadly, I learned on my return flight home that only 9 days after seeing him, he had passed away.  It was a privilege to be able to see him again but very sad to know he was the last male of his species.

I saw more lions on this trip than I’ve seen on any past trip.  The recent rains make everything rich and green.  Every lion from the tiniest cub to the regal males were very entertaining and photogenic.

The Less than Best of the Trip

I like to be adventuresome and try something new each trip. For this trip, I decided to go to Meru National Park.  On the positive side, I had read that it is not crowded with visitors.  That for sure was true as we never saw another tourist vehicle in the 3 days I was there (only 1 park ranger and some employee vehicles).  On the negative side, the animals are not used to seeing vehicles.  You can spot the animals, but as soon as you slow down, they run into the brush.  Since the main reason I travel to Kenya is to take photos, this park did not work well for me.

The flights between Lansing and Nairobi are very long and challenging for my back.  Time always passes too quickly on these trips.  Although sad to leave, I spent time on my return flights thinking of what my next trip back will bring and how soon I will be able to return. 

Favorite Photos