Africa Jan. 2024: Itinerary & Favorite Photos

Travel dates for this trip were January 8 – January 24.  Itinerary and accommodations are as follows (number in parenthesis is the number of nights stayed at the lodging).

I planned this eleventh trip to Kenya (what I consider my second home) to coincide with my birthday again.  It had been three years since I’d been here so it was time.  The good news was, all the health testing and forms were dramatically less with the decrease in Covid cases.  The bad news, as far as my air travel was concerned, more people were traveling, so the empty rows I experienced last trip were nonexistent.

I always experience some stress when making this very long trip.  I planned the trip starting in August, 2023.  At the very end of September, I ended up having unplanned rotator cuff surgery. Several people mentioned that recovery takes ten months.  That was very concerning because my camera with long lens is 7 pounds.  This meant I was extremely motivated with my physical therapy regimen.  I was very thankful to have a fantastic physical therapist.  My surgeon also said “absolutely no lifting of your carry-on bag into the overhead compartment”.  Copy that!

Things were going great until I arrived at AMS airport in Amsterdam. There ended up being a 2.5 hour flight delay.  The first announcement from the gate agent was ‘We apologize for the delay. The mechanics are looking into an engine issue.’  The next announcement that came was, “We apologize for the flight delay.  They have replaced the back-up generator to the engine and are testing it at the gate. They think it is ok and we will begin the boarding process in about 40 minutes.”  Boy, we “think” it is ok, when you are about to board an 8 hour flight?  When the plane landed in Nairobi, there was a lot of applause.

By the time I arrived at my lodging for the next 2 nights (Karen Gables), it was 2am.  That, in addition to the 8 hours of time difference, meant I did not sleep that first night.

My full day in Nairobi, was spent with my driver of many years, Joseph 2014 (the year we met) and included an excursion to visit the elephants at the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (adopting a new ellie Talek), shopping at Galleria Mall and Kobe Tough (a new Kazuri bead location) and enjoying lunch at Matbronze with Joseph. Joseph and I always enjoy stimulating discussions, although he knows he’s dealing with someone who is significantly jet lagged and sleep deprived.

The following morning, I flew out to Naboisho Conservancy for a four night stay at Eagle View (have stayed there several times).  Following that, I was transported overland for two hours, arriving after some water crossing challenges at Mara North for four nights staying at Offbeat Ndoto (new to me).  From Ndoto, I flew from the airstrip nearby through Nairobi Wilson airport and onto Amboseli where I stayed for four nights at Elephant Garden Camp (also new to me). Although I’ve been in all of these areas before, I really enjoyed staying at three new locations.

Top Photo Picks

These are my favorite photos of the trip.

Additional Photos

Favorite Short Videos

I was beyond to see Craig, the magnificent bull elephant. https://youtu.be/c0xCU2LlDLM

The first large maned lion seen in Naboisho Concervancy had a lady friend. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJgqNcPayT8

Nashipae and her cubs were a daily sighting in Naboisho. She and her cubs enjoyed a great meal. https://youtu.be/M71JNCUzYsE

Joseph navigates the swollen river to get to Ndoto, the leopard. https://youtu.be/ZYIQC5hm4dA

Large zebras taking a dust bath. https://youtu.be/1lu4JZ8UG3Y

Talek – My Newest Elephant Chubbie

I always like to visit the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust when traveling to Kenya. Since my last visit in 2021, policies have changed. The Trust backs up to Nairobi National Park. I went into the park last trip, and have to admit, I was not impressed. I prefer wildlife out in their natural environment, not backing into a bustling city. Kenya Wildlife Service has now implemented park fees, that all visitors to the David Sheldrick Trust must pay. So in addition to the $20 USD fee to visit the elephants, you must pay the park fee, which I believe was $45.

Bondeni, who I adopted in 2021, had now left the orphanage for his next phase of reintroduction to the wild. That left me with no ‘kids’ in Nairobi. Keeper Julius introduced me to Talek, a very sweet, independent girl, who on this visit, became another adopted member to our family.

Karen – Karen Gables (2)

Karen Gables was recommended by a friend of mine who has stayed there a few times.  I was not disappointed.  It is located in a very quiet area of Karen.  I like to stay at a location near the attractions in Karen I plan to visit.  I was supposed to arrive at NBO at 10pm and then have my driver transfer me.  However, due to a 2.5 hour delay due to a problem with a KLM plane, we didn’t arrive until around 1:30am.  No problem!  The security guard directed us to where we would find a staff person who could help with my check in.

The grounds are beautiful.  Very lush and green from the recent rains and the flowers are beautiful.  There is a nice pool (which I did not have time to use) and a patio where you can enjoy a great cup of coffee. 

My room, at the top of the stairs, although not huge, had everything I could need.  The bed was very comfortable and had mosquito nets.  I always appreciate having a desk in a room as well as an elevated luggage rack.  Water pressure in the shower was excellent. Bathrobes were provided as well.  Wi-fi is fast and included. There was ac in the room which I cut back a little to get used to the Kenyan climate (a big change from Michigan).

Information about Karen Gables including menus, amenities, FAQs was right on the desk.  I was only there for 2 nights pre-safari but I did enjoy breakfasts.  They had some items on the buffet (cereals) and also cooked to order, the hot portions of the breakfast as well as yummy fresh fruits.  All were enjoyable.

Chris, the owner, is very pleasant. I had heard there was a friendly dog around, I believe Max, and I hadn’t seen him so I made sure before I left that I was introduced.  He’s very polite.

It is definitely a great place to unwind after the long flights before a safari.

Naboisho Conservancy – Eagle View (4)

This is my 4th stay at Eagle View.  Former Manager Tony is now at another camp so the new assistant manager Felister was there to greet me. Since I was familiar with the camp, a long orientation wasn’t needed, and off I went to my home for 4 nights, tent 6B. Everything was as I’ve grown to expect, wonderful, including a comfortable bed, plenty of hot water for showers, and a great view overlooking the valley filled with wildlife to watch.  If I had to suggest anything, and it would likely be difficult due to the space, having small desk with chair would be great. I often find myself looking at photos or needing to journal or write an email and a desk is more comfortable than sitting on a bed.  The tents have power 24/7 and plenty of charging outlets. They now also have wi-fi in the tents which is great.

My guide this stay was Edward.  I first met him in 2018 when he had just graduated from guiding school.  Derrick was my guide along with Edward.  Over the years, we’ve stayed in contact, and I’ve enjoyed seeing his sightings, and learning about his marriage and now his son.  He’s a great guide!  His ability to find cheetah Nashipae and her four cubs every game drive was amazing and so much fun to watch.

The staff at this camp are always friendly and beyond helpful.  Of special note was Koshal, a very wise and experienced person who solved (easily) a problem I created for myself.  On my first night, after dinner when I got back to my tent, I realized I had locked my duffle and my keys to unlock it were INSIDE the duffle.  I was in a panic!  The night askari (security guard) who had walked me back to my tent in the darkness was close by. I explained to him what the problem was.  We both felt that the lock would have to be cut off.  Off he went to get a tool but when he came back, Koshal was with him. Koshal looked at the lock, said “no” to cutting it off, took something from his pocket and managed to unhook the zipper pull so the zipper could be released and the bag opened.  And he smiled all the while he was conducting this operation.  We were all so pleased.

I really enjoyed having dinner and conversation with Felister while there.  Some camps I have stayed at have group dining. This one has individual tables.  As a solo traveler, it can be really nice to have conversation with the managers to learn about the camp, the area, the culture and what they enjoy doing in their off time. Thank you for joining me.

Mara North Conservancy – Offbeat Ndoto (4)

This was my 4th stay with Offbeat but my first stay at Offbeat Ndoto (my other 3 were at Offbeat Mara).  This camp is a sister property of Offbeat and located nearby Offbeat Mara.

I was picked up by my guide Joseph (who has been my guide for all 3 previous stays) and driven to camp.  Once more, friendly waves and smiles greeted me.  Bob and Carol, who I met on my 2021 trip at Offbeat Mara, are now managing Offbeat Ndoto.  I was a bit delayed on my arrival due to the rains and water levels to cross bridges but an enjoyable lunch was waiting for me.

Afterwards, I was taken to my next home of 4 nights, tent number 1 which was just a short walk from the main dining tent.  Talk about luxury…. the tent is huge, with not only a comfortable bed, but a seating area complete with sofa, chair, more chairs and a desk.  Wi-fi is now in every tent. The bathroom/dressing area is also big and the fantastic rain shower has hot water on demand any time you want.  My back loved it. Outside, the deck area has a comfy lounge where you can read, nap or just enjoy the view.

Every morning, I was up early and ready to enjoy my delivered to the tent, hot chocolate and cookies before heading out at 6am to enjoy the best lighting for photography.  There is so much wildlife in Mara North Conservancy.  Prides of lions, herds of elephants, beautiful birds, hippos, giraffes, amazing landscapes, sunrises and sunsets and an extra special leopard provided lots of photo ops.  Even with the rains prior to my arrival and some during my stay, nothing stops these guides from navigating to get you great photos.

Every time I’ve stayed at Offbeat, there have been special surprises.  On this trip, one breakfast was spent with all of our vehicles gathered at the river to watch the hippos. Another day, we all met for a beautiful, cooked on location, bush breakfast complete with linen tablecloths and china.  Then there was the extra special surprise the evening of my birthday, when many of the staff and guides came in leading traditional Maasi celebration activities including Adumu (the traditional jumping dance).  Everyone joined in the fun and a tasty cake completed our dinner.

It’s always hard to leave the Offbeat properties.  Everyone here becomes like family, always looking after you and helping in any way to make your stay the best. On our way to the airstrip, Joseph suggested we take another look for Ndoto, the leopard we had seen.  Water levels were down crossing the bridge which made it a lot easier.  She was still laying at the base of the tree we had seen her in earlier, looking very sleepy but such a beauty and a nice way to remember my stay.

Amboseli – Elephant Garden Camp (4)

Elephant Garden Camp was suggested to me by a friend who knows how important photography is to me while traveling in Kenya and this camp did not disappoint.

Since the camp was new, opening in July, 2022, I couldn’t find a lot of information about it in advance. Their website did say that every booking included a guaranteed private vehicle.  As a photographer, that made the decision easy for me.

My guide David, met me at the Amboseli airstrip and from then, until returning to the airstrip after a 4 night stay, was wildlife, wildlife and more wildlife. Not only is he great at pointing out everything, he knew how to position the vehicle for great shots.  It is always best to have a guide that is familiar with the area as well as the wildlife. He exceeded my expectations.

My last stay in Amboseli was 3 years ago (in a different lodge).  This area is elephant central. There are also beautiful birds as well as other wildlife but elephants, especially some of the larger bulls, are prolific here.  I was beyond excited that David was able to identify the big boys Vronsky, Frosty, Townsend, Tee Jay and especially the magnificent Craig.

The camp (consisting of only 5 tents) has a very intimate feel and is situated just below Mount Kilimanjaro in a private conservancy.  Views of the mountain would come and go.  The camp is fenced and it was wonderful to sit out on the deck and watch the view as well as the birds enjoying the vegetation.  The drive to the main Kimana gate of Amboseli National Park, is just a short distance away. The drive to the air strip is a bit further but the amazing herds of elephants makes the time go quickly.

From the moment I arrived, I was greeted by one of the owners An as well as a number of other camp personnel, smiling all the time.  Nothing is too much trouble.  I also can’t fail to mention that I really enjoyed the 2 wonderful dogs, Naaju and Maple who were not only entertaining to watch, but also Naaju was a pretty constant companion at my feet by my table for meals.  The food was amazing.  Since I like to be out at first daylight, David and I took bush breakfasts every day except my last day.  Lunch back at the camp at 1pm was vegetarian.  The chef does an amazing job at creativity and tastes.  While finishing lunch, the menu for dinner was discussed with a choice of vegetarian or non-vegetarian.  Selections were great and something I really appreciate is when the food being served comes very hot.

I was situated in the 2nd tent from the main area (Eliot), which was only a short walk along a paved pathway filled with beautiful plants and flowers and well lit.  The tents are huge, and in addition to the comfortable bed, had a comfortable sofa (maybe it was an additional bed for an extra person) and a desk (which is great if you are working on photographs).  There are plenty of outlets for charging items.  The bathroom had double sinks, lots of room and a rain shower with a lot of pressure and hot water 24/7.  Wi-fi is available in the main area but not in the tents. Laundry service is also included. If I had to make any suggestion, since Amboseli can get warm during the middle of the day, a floor or desk fan might be a good addition.

In the early morning when I would go out (and it was still dark) and in the evenings after dinner, an askari (security person) always walks you to and from your tent. It was especially nice that he (as well as well as others in the main area) would offer to carry my backpack with camera gear which was pretty heavy and having had recent shoulder surgery, very helpful.

Everything at Elephant Garden Camp met and exceeded my expectations. Owners An and Eric have created an amazing camp.  I look forward to returning.

Nairobi – Eka Hotel (Day Room)

Another visit at this hotel for a day room.  The staff is always very welcoming. I actually got to spend a bit more time here because my flight from Amboseli came in earlier in the day.  One of the reasons I really like this hotel is because there is a Spurs Restaurant here which has great food, at reasonable prices and fast service.  A great place to stay prior to the short drive to the airport for a late night flight.

Traveling with Amazing Memories Safaris

This is my 5th trip with Amazing Memories Safaris as my Tour Operator and my 11th trip to Kenya.  I first worked with Anne and Joseph’s company for my trip in 2017 (but had gotten to know Anne in 2014) and they have gone above and beyond to meet my expectations every time. Their communication is fantastic and they continue to answer any questions I might have (even after 10 trips).

It has been 3 years since I’ve been back to what I consider my second home.  I was so excited to be coming back. There is nothing better than arriving at the airport late at night (and I had a 2.5 hour delay) and being greeted by the smiling faces of Anne and Joseph as well as a couple of new members of the team.

I began the planning in August, 2023, letting Anne know of the 3 tented camps I wanted to stay at (Eagle View, Offbeat Ndoto and Elephant Garden Camp).  Two were new to me.  I also picked a new place to stay on the front end of the trip, Karen Gables in Karen (near the places I planned to visit on my full day in Nairobi).  From beginning to end, everything fell into place. She made sure the lodging knew of my preferences, including guides, beds, food and any allergies. Anne also knew I had had recent shoulder surgery and would need added assistance so that was arranged. Some of my previous trips have been completely over land. For this trip, I decided to fly the bush planes to my locations except the short transport between Eagle View and Offbeat Ndoto.  It does save quite a bit of time and my back also appreciates it.  Amazing Memories handled all of my internal flights perfectly.

During the planning process, there were a couple of changes that happened.  The Kenyan government switched from requiring an eVisa to an Electronic Travel Authorization.  Luckily, my eVisa that I had already processed, was still accepted. In addition, the Kenya Wildlife Service implemented new park fees, including paying a park fee to Nairobi National Park (which Sheldrick Wildlife Trust backs into and is required to pay even if you are not vising the park).  Anne made sure I knew of these changes which were totally out of their control.

Over an enjoyable dinner on my last evening before heading to the airport, Amazing Memories always takes the time to ask how things went (although we communicated during the trip via email) and if there is anything they can improve upon.  It would be difficult for them to improve, because everything runs smoothly from beginning to end. Their abilities to handle all of my safari needs is why I continue to work with them and have recommended them to friends and family.

The Best of the Trip

When my friends and family ask why I have continued to come to Kenya so many times, I have to explain that every trip here holds special memories.

With global warming, the weather patterns have changed a lot. I like to spend my January birthday in a place of amazement, that captures my heart and fills me with lasting memories. January used to be hot and dry but now I’m finding it is green and lush from the rains which brings new birth to the animals and flowers.

On this trip, although in areas I’ve visited before, I experienced 3 new lodgings, and made new friends. Interestingly, even though 9,000 miles from home, I also surprisingly ran into friends I’ve not seen since 2021. It truly is a small world.

Photographic opportunities were incredible. My guides Edward, Joseph and David drove over what I thought would be impassible areas, to locate wildlife for me and put the vehicle into the best position for great photos.  Spectacular lions, an amazing cheetah mom, a breathtaking leopard, and incredible bull and families of elephants were above and beyond.  Even the landscape provided unusual images.

Special thanks goes to my shoulder surgeon (Dr. Patrick Noud), my physical therapist (Dan Fryc) and my anesthesiologist who keeps my back participating (Dr. Joel Bez). Without all of you, this trip would not have been possible.

This is why Kenya is so special. As long as I am able to endure the long flights, it is at the top of my must visit places.

The Less than Best of the Trip

To get to what I consider my second home, is a very long trip of 17 hours of air time (Lansing to Detroit to Amsterdam to Nairobi).  Although my visit this trip was 14 nights and 15 days, it never seems long enough. Even though I’ve come here 11 times, I’ve still not seen or photographed every animal I’ve looked for.  I’m constantly kidded that seeing a Honey Badger is on my priority list.  I know one of my guides will find it one day which it the reason I continue to return.