Africa March 2014: Itinerary & Favorite Photos

Travel dates for this trip were March 2-March 24, 2014.  Itinerary and accommodations are as follows (number in parenthesis is number of nights stayed at lodging):

Lansing to Nairobi via Amsterdam

Nairobi Fairview Hotel (2)

 

Although I had stayed many times at the Intercontinental Hotel, due to favorable reviews, I decided to try the Fairview Hotel, a very wise decision.  The hotel is an oasis in the bustle of downtown Nairobi.  Located near the Israel Embassy, the security is top of the line.  Not only are the staff are very friendly but there was also an enjoyable chorus of tree frogs to welcome us.

Initially, I was a little concerned that our room, which was supposed to have two double beds, had one bed plus a sofa bed.  The check in person said we could be moved for the second night if the sofa bed was uncomfortable.  It was wonderful!  No issues at all and no need to relocate.  Wi fi is available in the room and quite fast once I figured out that I needed to go to the hotel’s website to connect (this is common now at many of the locations).  The room had a separate bathtub and stall shower, good water pressure and plenty of hot water.  There was also a desk fan to help circulate the air.

The breakfast buffet was enjoyable with a huge selection of fresh fruits, cereals, pastries and eggs cooked to one’s liking.  Dinner at the poolside cafe was excellent and prices reasonable.

The gift shop near the entrance had a very nice selection of items.  They also sell postage stamps

Ol Pejeta Conservancy Sweetwaters  Tented Camp (2)

 

Since my last visit to Sweetwaters in 2010, there has been extensive remodeling of the dining area, reception and gift shop.  The dining area is much larger with a fantastic view of the water hole.  The food remains as wonderful as before and the chefs always come out and greet the guests and truly seem to enjoy making sure you eat enough.

On this visit, I was in tent #14, which is a fair walk from the dining area.  It was on the front row level facing the water hole.  Although they are in the process of replacing several of the older, green tents with the new lighter ones (as I had before), tent #14 was still the older style but very comfortable.

The bathroom has plenty of space (and offers flaps which can be lowered for more privacy), hot water (in the early morning you need to run it a little while), flush toilet and plenty of storage space.

Wi fi is available at no charge with a good connection in the lounge area.

Lake Nakuru National Park Sarova Lion Hill Lodge (2)

 

This is my second time staying at Lion Hill.  The location is beautiful.  Even though the park has seen a lot of flooding since my last visit in 2010, the lodge remains accessible and the wildlife in the immediate area is very good.

The main dining area is spacious with dining available inside and also on the patio.  On one of the two nights this trip, dinner was served around the pool which was very nice.  The selections are numerous, with plenty of main courses, vegetarian options, salads and wonderful desserts.

The gift shop still has a good selection of items and the prices are some of the most reasonable of the gift shops on this trip.  Staff at the reception area, as well as room and dining attendants are very helpful and friendly.  Wi fi is now available at no extra charge from the room, although as in most areas, can be slow depending on the weather.

Masai Mara Game Reserve Mara Serena Lodge (3)

 

The location of the Mara Serena Lodge is beautiful.  It sits high up on a hill overlooking the river and a valley which often has giraffes and elephants within view.

Interestingly, I was back in Room #1, just like in 2010.  It is a nice location if you wish to avoid climbing the hill up the long pathway to the dining area and reception.  Typical of the Serena style, the twin beds seem small.  The bathroom has a stall shower and single sink and a nice assortment of toiletries.  The bathroom does back up (and so does the room door) to the main pathway.  If the lodge is crowded, it can become noisy (but this was not a problem on this visit).  Electricity was on 24/7 which was nice so the fan could be running.  Initially, there was a problem getting hot water in the shower but after mentioning it to the front desk, someone came while we were at lunch and replaced the shower head which solved the problem.

The private balconies are nice although there are no screens on the doors.  Make sure you lock your balcony door when leaving or the monkeys will help themselves to whatever they can find.

Since I was last there, the entire entrance/reception area, sitting lounge, outside terrace with spectacular view and dining area have been rebuilt.  There are lots of nooks and crannies in which to sit and talk to friends and even a fireplace for cold nights.  The dining area is much larger and didn’t seem as noisy as it did in the past.

The food was well prepared and there was a good variety.  There was an active food station where at breakfast you can have eggs cooked to your desire and at lunch and dinner, typically there is pasta or stir fry cooking.  I particularly enjoyed the fresh vegetable salads at lunch and dinner.  Plenty of options for vegetarians.

The gift shop has expanded and had a nice variety although prices seemed higher than at other locations.  Once you decide what you wish to purchase, you may have to go out to the main desk to ask for assistance as the store employee seemed to also be attending to other duties.   The pool was very busy and looked clean.  Internet service is available from your room at no additional charge, although when there, it was down for two days.

There is an active research project involving hyenas being conducted by Michigan State University (http://hyenas.zoology.msu.edu/) (my alma mater).  While there, I was lucky enough to meet with one of the graduate students who mentioned they gave presentations at the Mara Serena weekly to guests.

The location of this lodge would bring me back again as it is a very short drive and you are in the middle of wildlife.

Serengeti National Park Seronara Wildlife Lodge (1)

 

As of December 2023, this lodge was still closed.

When traveling between the Mara Serena and the Serengeti Mbuzi Mawe via the Isebania border, this lodge was suggested for 1 night.  Although the reviews were mostly negative, I figured, how bad could it be for one night? At least the water pressure in the shower was ok (this was my biggest fear).

The room was small and dark and the creaking floor was terrible. Luckily, no one was staying overhead as I’m sure I would not have slept. The bathroom towels were worn and frayed.

The only plus the place had was the view. However, if you are a person that can’t climb steps easily, this lodge will not work for you. It is quite a climb to get to the dining/bar area. Regarding food, the selections were quite limited compared to other places I stayed. The meats were very tough. I think what bothered me the most was the non friendly staff. At dinner, while I was trying to navigate the steep steps into the dining area (and there were only a couple of other guests), two male employees who were busy chatting with each other, didn’t even step out of the way while I was coming down the steps. I had to walk around them. During the dinner, breakfast and lunch I ate there, only one server even smiled and checked on the table to clear my plates.

Never saw a room attendant either, nor had the bed been turned down or toilet paper refilled, until I was checking out. Then it appeared they were just standing outside the room, waiting to clean it.

This place will be permanently checked off my possibility list. And as others have reported, the business center and gift shop were still not opened during any time.

Serengeti National Park Mbuzi Mawe Tented Camp (2)

 

Mbuzi Mawe is an outstanding tented camp located in the Serengeti.  This was my favorite Serena property on this trip as well as my trip in 2012.  The tents are huge (this time tent #15) and have two  queen sized beds.  The colors inside are nice and bright making it light and airy.  Not only was there a desk area with an appropriate height chair but there was a small seating area which was great for reading or journal writing.  The bathroom had double sinks and there was a large reclining lounger on the patio area.

The food was excellent and the staff exceeds in their friendliness.  While staying here, a young couple was celebrating their honeymoon.  The staff brought them a lovely cake and sang to them much to the enjoyment of the rest of us.

The best part is the closeness of the wildlife.  Since the camp is not fenced, you are escorted starting early in the evenings.  There are plenty of photogenic klipspringers throughout and if you’re quiet, they will come very close.  During a terrific rainstorm, two klipspringer parents brought their youngsters to stand near the tent wall under the overhang while they continued to stand watch in the pouring rain.  There are however, naughty baboons and it is important when here to totally zip up your tent as well as place the lounger cushion across the zipper area.

Internet is available at no charge at your tent although on this trip, apparently there were some problems and I couldn’t get it to work as I did last time.

Would definitely stay here again.

Ngorongoro Conservation Area Serena Ngorongoro Crater (2)

 

The Ngorongoro Crater Serena sits high up on the crater rim and has beautiful views of the crater floor.  Oddly, I was assigned room 38, on the upper level, the same room I had in 2012. which had a private balcony with a fantastic view of the crater.  The room, although somewhat smaller than other Serena properties, was comfortable.  The twin beds were small but comfy.  It was nice having a heater in the bedroom and bathroom area because it does get cool at this elevation at night.  The bathroom was roomy with a stall shower.

To take advantage of the views, the lodge is built into the side of the crater.  This does mean however, that when you enter the reception area at ground level, you will need to walk down a couple of flights of steps to get to the room levels.  Then, depending on what level your room is on, you may have to walk up a couple of flights of steps.  But I did find this refreshing after sitting in the vehicle a lot of the day.

At this location, breakfast and lunch were buffet and dinner was a selection of salads and desserts off the buffet, but the remainder of the meal is served.  Note, if you don’t care for the eggs on the buffet, you can ask your server to have your preferred style of eggs cooked for you. I requested a hard boiled egg and it was brought to me in 10 minutes.

WiFi is available at no cost in the room.  For those heading out early in the morning, tea and an assortment of cookies or cake are served in the dining area.

Tarangire Safari Lodge/Tented Camp (2)

 

I was last in Tarangire in March 2009.  When planning this trip for the same month, I had one Trip Operator that said “we won’t go to Tarangire because there are no animals there at that time and nothing but tse tse flies.”  Now things could have changed, and yes, I do remember some tse tse flies, but I do have quite a few photographs of animals in this park at this time.  I am especially glad that I kept it on the itinerary.

With the rave reviews on Trip Advisor of Tarangire Safari Lodge (which is more of a tented camp than lodge), I added it for two nights.  Good decision!

There seemed to be a slight ‘glitch’ on check in as they didn’t seem to have the reservation.  But Owner Annette said there would be no problem as there was room and would we like a tent closer to the dining area or further away.  Close it was.

When walking to the tent (#5), the first thing you notice is the spectacular view overlooking a valley where you can watch the elephants crossing the river right from your patio.  There was also the local ‘welcoming committee’ of vervet monkeys which seemed quite inquisitive about the new people.

The tent, although a little older than some I’ve seen, had one of the most efficient layouts I’ve experienced.  Two people could actually maneuver nicely without crashing into each other.  The beds were extremely comfortable.  There was a really nice set of storage shelves in the bathroom area which kept the sleeping area tidy.  The toilet and shower area each have their own separate curtains for added privacy.

Within the tent, there are no outlets to charge electronics but there is a huge charging station in the lounge/bar area that is available when the power is on.  If you require immediate charging, the main reception desk is available although when I went to use it, there were no additional plugs available.  While in the dining area, you can ask for a table on the outer edge where plugs are available and you can charge while eating (and they didn’t seem to mind if I stayed a little longer to upload photos).

Wi Fi is available at no extra charge, in the reception area and the connection is quite good.

Annette is readily available, always checking to make sure guests have what they need.  I mentioned showering and the water seemed quite cool.  Two employees followed me back to the tent after dinner, went out and inspected the water system and said the water would be hot in about 20 minutes, which it was.

If I had to offer one suggestion, a small desk fan in the tent to circulate air when there is power would be helpful as it can get warm.

Meals were all buffets and the dinner selections seems more limited than at other locations.  However, the food was well prepared and quite tasty. We took a box breakfast out which left a lot to be desired.  But rarely have I had an outstanding box breakfast or lunch.

To the company that said there was no reason to go to Tarangire in March (a Canadian based company), I have to mention that I have wonderful photos taken in this area including a baby giraffe, amazing elephants, many species of birds, friendly dik diks and an extremely photogenic leopard.  Yes, we did get some tse tse fly bites, but I wouldn’t trade this location for anything.

Amboseli National Park Ol Tukai Lodge (2)

 

Ol Tukai Lodge is located inside Amboseli National Park which makes game drives just moments away (in addition to what you can view from your room).

Room (#31) was located in the remodeled Elephant Wing with a view of the savannah (and yes, elephants).  Rooms on the other wing face Mt Kilimanjaro.  I absolutely loved this location which is why I chose to return again after being here in 2010.  Rooms are a good size with comfortable (but harder) beds with mosquito netting, colorful decor, plenty of charging outlets, great shower, desk and sitting area.  Make sure to close and lock your windows when out of the room or the resident monkeys will be visiting.

The food was well prepared and offered quite a few selections. I must admit, I’m a dessert fan and the “chocolate fudge” was the best dessert of the trip – a dark chocolate hardened with almonds.  The peanut butter bars were also especially good.  Breakfast and lunch were buffets and dinner offered buffet salads and desserts but the menu selections were served.

The staff are very helpful.  After getting a number of tse tse fly bites, we wanted to check and see if there was something better we could use to relieve the itching.  A person at the in-house medical clinic was tracked down and we purchased some cream which worked better than what we had carried with us.

The grounds are lovely to walk around, affording opportunities to take lots of photos. I loved the fact that this place is so shaded that you can walk about and stay cool.

Tsavo West Serena Kilaguni (2)

 

Located within Tsavo West National Park, this was a lodge and location new to me.  I debated between Tsavo East and West and ultimately chose this location based on a reported good mix of interesting landscapes as well as plenty of wildlife.  I will say that there were reports of wildlife being difficult to spot due to the vegetation as well as some security issues along the road which we would travel.  Neither of these proved to be an issue.

The first thing I noticed about Tsavo West National Park is the rich red tones of the earth.  It makes for wonderful photographs.

When checking into room #14, what I first noticed, is how large the rooms are.  There is a large amount of desk counter space which is really nice.  In addition, there is a seating area near the door to the balcony.  The balcony has an amazing view overlooking the water hole.  There is typically at a minimum water birds, zebras, monkeys and gazelle grazing about.  One evening, right after returning from a game drive, 22 elephants showed up at dusk, bathing and frolicking in the water and being quite vocal.  It was a real treat.  There are air vents in the wooden slats off to the side, but it would be nice if the balcony doors had larger screens to increase the air flow as Tsavo West can be quite warm.  There is an overhead fan in the room though and electricity is 24/7.

The bathroom is large with double sinks (with under the sink lighting which is nice as a night light) and a big shower stall.  Plenty of towel bars to hang wet towels or hand laundry on.

One thing I’ve noticed is that the Serena properties do not have central tip boxes in the lobby (at least none of the ones I have visited did).  A centralized tipping option seems to be mentioned frequently on Trip Advisor (and it does help with not having to constantly break down larger bills).  In these locations, I just kept a supply of folded small bills in my pockets.

The dining area is very large and there is also a step down level with seating in case you wish to enjoy a beverage overlooking the water hole.  There always seemed to be plenty of food options (buffet for breakfast and lunch).  At dinner, salads, fruits and desserts are self serve and the main entree is brought to the table.  The servers and restaurant manager were extremely friendly and also take the time to memorize your names.  A naturalist was walking about asking us how our game drives were and they also ask if you wished to be wakened during the night if a particular animal shows up at the water hole.

Wi Fi is available at no additional charge although the connection was slow from the room.  The signal is much stronger by the lobby.

This property is a must stay at if you are going to Tsavo West

Nairobi Fairview Hotel day room

 

Although I did not take any additional photos, I did get to see what a “corner” room looked like for our day room before departing Nairobi for the flight home.  I can see why these rooms are highly desirable.  There is a nice cross breeze in the sleeping area.  In the bathroom, there were multiple windows, including one in the shower, to let out the moist air.  On my next visit, this upgrade would definitely be worth it.

Another great meal was enjoyed at the pool restaurant.  Chicken quesadillas have become my favorite.  Servers are extremely friendly as were all the employees at the hotel.  I particularly wish to mention how helpful the woman in the Business Center was for helping me with preparing my boarding passes for the flight home.

This hotel will definitely be at the top of my list while staying in Nairobi.

 

Traveling with All Seasons Safaris and Migada Adventures

 

When planning this trip to Kenya and Tanzania, I had to take a different approach.  In the past, I had worked directly with a guide.  He was no longer available.  Since this was my 4th trip to Africa, I had a pretty good idea of where I wanted to go, returning to some previous locations, as well as adding some new places.  At the same time, I was open to suggestions.

I didn’t feel it was necessary to contact a multitude of tour operators based on past experiences and the wealth of information available to me on Trip Advisor as well as other resources.

I contacted 6 tour operators (TOs), providing the same information to each of them.  Of the 6, this was the outcome: three TOs got back to me and pretty much addressed my desired itinerary, making a couple of suggestions for potential changes.  One TO, frequently mentioned on Trip Advisor strongly discouraged the Isebania border crossing due to costs, distances and vehicle wear and tear and also suggested that if I was going to the Serengeti, to skip the Mara.  To me, these two areas are rather different, especially for photography.  I strongly suspect another reason for not wanting to cross at Isebania, is that most likely, the average client will not want to spend that much travel time on bumpy roads (but not an issue for me).  One TO said no to the Isebania border, said no to Tarangire because there would be “no animals” at that time and only tsetse flies (and I was in this park in March before and have lots of animal photos) and said no to Tsavo West due to “unsafe driving conditions”.  He did not explain what that meant.  The 6th T.O. (another regular on Trip Advisor) surprised me and never got back to me.

There are plenty of TOs available to choose from that are based in Kenya or Tanzania.  When selecting one, they will typically partner with another operator for the other country.  When looking for TOs a good place to start is either the Kenya Association of Tour Operators (http://www.katokenya.org/) or the Tanzania Association of Tour Operators  (http://www.tatotz.org/).  It is a good place to start but just because an operator is On or Not On the list, does not necessarily mean that are a great or not so great business.  I used these organizations for a basic start, but in my opinion, a better reference is word of mouth.

A concern that many travelers have is whether it is ‘safe’ to book directly with a tour operator located ‘in country’ as opposed to working through a travel agent in the country you live in.  In planning this trip, I actually found it easier to work with a TO based in Kenya, than those located right here in the U.S.  I’m not sure why that is.  Perhaps the local country operators realize there is a huge, competitive market and strive harder for business or perhaps those that I dealt with in the U.S. were overly concerned about what I was asking for based on experiences with other customers or the fact that they get enough business from travelers fearing booking direct with a Kenyan/Tanzanian will be a problem.  Comfort level can be a large influence but if you spend some time investigating on line sources as well as travel guides (which can usually be borrowed from a library), there is no reason not to book with a local operator and I am sure glad I went this route.

OK, so if you are still reading about my process for this trip, I’m sure you are wondering, well, who is the TO she traveled with?  That would be All Seasons Safaris and Tours (http://www.allseasonssafaris.com/).  Initially my reason for choosing this company was word of mouth.  However, from my first contact with the company, and its Managing Director Alex Thuku, it became apparent that I had made a good choice.

From the initial contact, Alex was extremely prompt in contacting me back to let me know he had received my safari request, and would get back to me in a couple of days with a proposed itinerary including lodging, costs and possible optional add ons.  Just as promised, he sent a 24 page document, including photos of the lodging and vehicles.  Very professional.  After a detailed review of this document, I sent him an email, addressing any concerns and/or potential issues.  He always got back to me promptly.  If there was going to be any delay in response (because he was not in the office), one of his staff would reply back and tell me when I would expect a reply from Alex.  One thing I particularly liked is that Alex prefers to continue to follow through with the client, instead of having others ‘take over’ the account.  As a super organized person, I appreciated the consistency of dealing with one person.  Finalizing the safari was done in no time at all and my 50% deposit paid.  Initially, I was told the remainder of the balance could be paid on arrival, but I preferred to pay the balance in full ahead of time (minimum 2 weeks out) so I did not have to carry the extra cash.  As it turned out, Alex contacted me after the announcement of the park fee increase, letting me know that since the booking was made in 2013 for a 2014 trip, if I paid the balance right away, I would avoid the additional fee increase.  Outstanding!!  In addition, when I asked him what category of room I had at the Fairview, he contacted to me to let me know he had contacted them for a possible upgrade.  Although he thought this upgrade would be complimentary, he ultimately absorbed the cost.

The meet and greet at the airport was prompt.  I must admit, after the long flight and being used to my previous guide meeting me within the luggage area, it was a little confusing finding the representative with a sign (Meshack and a new trainee) in the mass of other tour operators.  But I was considerably tired from the flights.  Meshack also helped me with exchanging some USD at the airport which I appreciated getting out of the way.  I was a little concerned about the car used to transport us from the airport to the Fairview as it was small and barely fit the luggage.  But the ride was short.  The vehicle was swapped over to a larger vehicle for the next full day in Nairobi visiting the public ellies, Nakumatt, Kazuri beads, lunch at Mamba Village and the private ellie time.  He was a little late with the pick up, but the car swap was partially responsible.  No worries as everything I wanted to do was checked off my list.

Minor glitch on the Nairobi day, when we went to leave Sheldricks elephant orphanage in the evening, the car had a dead battery.  But a group of the guys who worked there were very nice about jumping the battery.  They even said if I’d like to stay overnight there and feed the baby elephants, that might be possible.  Somehow I felt the bed at the Fairview might be more comfortable.

A document was given to me by Meshack that was prepared in the office with the full itinerary for the 3 week trip.  In looking it over, I noticed a couple of differences from my initial understanding.  I mentioned them to Meshack and also emailed Alex and was told all was fine (and it was).

On the first day of the safari departing Nairobi, another hiccup occurred for which Guide Daniel felt badly.  But it was in no part due to any problems with All Seasons.  The matatus had gone on strike that day, and their way of dealing with it is to block major roads.  Guide Daniel had left to get us in plenty of time but got stuck in traffic for 4 hours.  We departed 2 hours late for Sweetwaters, but again, hakuna matata, not his fault.  Just glad to get out of the big city.

Guide Daniel for the initial Kenya part of the trip was great!  He is deeply interested in photography (as am I) so his pleasant/humorous personality and his interests, made for good compatibility.  We met at the end of every day to determine what the desired plan of attack was (I prefer going out at 6/6:30am and coming back late breakfast, then going back out at 3:30pm until the sun is going down – best lighting and animal activity).  He was always prompt.  His English was very easy to understand.  On the day we traveled to the Mara, we again encountered another ‘issue’.  After Daniel told Alex what was happening, Alex apologized for what was going on.  Again, it had nothing to do with All Seasons.  While traveling through Narok on the way to the Mara, the students at the local university were protesting campus security.  I learned that the night before, a college student, who resisted a mugging, was killed.  The students protested by blocking the main road to the Mara with vehicles and were stoning vehicles trying to get through.  Daniel immediately took hold of the situation, stopping at a very clean, new coffee/food facility with clean bathrooms, to take us to a safe place.  The police had been called but the students overtook them so more reinforcements were called in and the tear gassing began.  After speaking with others in front of the cafe, Daniel came back in and said we needed to go now and that we would take a back road to avoid the conflict.  It was a nasty incident, but I felt nothing but safe in Daniel’s care.  I worried more about him because he was outside trying to get a handle on things.  So we lost a couple of hours, but again, hakuna matata.

During our stay at the Mara Serena, and during our game drive, we came across a den of hyena pups.  I explained to Daniel that Michigan State University (my university) was conducting an extensive hyena research program in the Mara.  After returning for lunch, Daniel ran into one of the graduate students picking up supplies and he mentioned to her that he was traveling with “Spartans” so she wanted to meet.  Had it not been for Daniel’s noticing her, this would not have happened!

Daniel was a very good spotter although we were giving him a bit of a hard time about where all the male lions were.  We did not see any male lions (only females and cubs) throughout all of Kenya and only first saw them coming through Tanzania in the Crater.  Never saw any cheetahs either but we did see an amazing number of leopards.  Every trip is different and I’m very happy for what I did see in both countries, obviously if I took 6739 photos!

After 8.5 days with Daniel, it was time to say goodbye at the Isebania border.  At Isebania, we were being met by another vehicle and guide who All Seasons partners with – from Migada Adventures.

When working with Alex of All Seasons and asking him about who they work with in Tanzania, he mentioned Migada Adventures and said they were members of the Tato organization.  Naturally, I looked high and low for any information or reviews I could find.  The only information I could find about them was via their website (http://www.migadadventures.com/).  I was a little concerned about the lack of reviews for Migada, but those worries were put to rest after being transferred to their skillful guide at the Isebania border.

Guide Ikamba was there waiting for us at the Isebania border for the smooth transition between vehicles.  I know a couple of the companies I had contacted regarding my initial plans to transfer from Kenya to Tanzania at this border had questioned it.   I’m now glad I did it this way.  Rather than backtracking through Kenya, this made it possible to complete a big circle loop (Nairobi to Sweetwaters to Lake Nakuru to the Mara to the Serengeti to Ngorongoro Crater, to Tarangire back through Namanga to Amboseli and Tsavo West and back to Nairobi).  Yes, the road from the Mara to the Serengeti was long, but not as bad as I had expected.  The border crossing at Isebania is nice and easy.  The border area is quite clean (concrete area as opposed to the dust and chaos I had experienced at Namanga) and documentation processing was very quick.

After a quick transfer of all of the luggage, we were on our way.  We did have a box lunch with us due to the length of travel time and ate it as we drove to save time.  When this was first mentioned, and after remembering all the comments about the terribly bumpy roads in this area, I was a little concerned.  But the road was definitely smooth enough to be able to poke my straw into my juice box and eat my lunch with no problems.  When driving this way, you pass through many of the local villages which to me, adds a degree of interest.  Safari is not just about the wildlife, but it is the journey and part of that journey is getting to understand the culture.

Guide Ikamba seemed quiet at first but in no time, he was talking about what we were hoping to see, what we had seen, talking about his family and whistling tunes along the way.  Our vehicle was a new Landcruiser, complete with a refrigerator box.  I had not seen that before.  Something I noticed early on is that I didn’t see a radio hanging from the roof.  My first thought was that since this was a new vehicle, perhaps it was installed in a different area.  A little concerned, but more about this coming.

From the moment we crossed into the Serengeti Park, we started a game drive on the way to a one night’s stay at the Seronara Wildlife Lodge.  After arriving in my room, I was really glad it was only for one night.  Immediately, Ikamba started pointing out birds and wildlife.  I’m a pretty good spotter, but even when he pointed out something, I had to stare long and hard to see what he saw because it was so far away.  This guy has eyes like a hawk.

Bright and early the next morning, we continued for a game drive at 6:30am.  I so enjoy this time of the day – cool, great lighting, animals active.  We were heading to Mbuzi Mawe.  Now about that radio….. the quiet in the vehicle was a nice change, no static noise, no banter back and forth with the other drivers, just the sounds of the African birds.  I asked Ikamba about the radio and he said it was going to be installed soon but the vehicle was new and that is why it wasn’t there.  This was never an issue.  Ikamba kept spotting things on his own.  The only time I saw him communicating with anyone was when the vehicle was stopped so I could take photos, and then occasionally, I saw him making a short text message.  But as soon as I was ready, we forged ahead.  During the course of the next 8 days, he spotted several leopards for us.  All but one of these, we were the first vehicle on the scene.  So I knew he had to be finding them on his own.

As our days with Ikamba continued, I had a real appreciation for his guiding skills.  Not only was he an excellent spotter, but his personality style was easy going, polite, good sense of humor, always a big help carrying my camera bag, or anything else, into the front reception area from the vehicle.  Some drivers just drop you in the parking lot and wish you well for the rest of the night.  Not Ikamba, he’s a follow through kind of guy which I really appreciated.

On our way back through Arusha and on to the Namanga border, he mentioned that some people in the office would like to meet us and ask for feedback about our safari.  So we stopped at their office in downtown Arusha where we met many of the staff and were given a nice colorful brochure and fantastic polo shirt.  Managing Director of Migada,  Mike Ngoty, who had been traveling and was not at the office, also wanted to meet us, so we pulled into a gas station on our way out of town, where we were greeted warmly by Mike, who also asked for feedback.  Always nice to put names to faces and I have a great deal of appreciation when the owners ask for feedback.

When we got to the Namanga border, we were sad to leave Ikamba behind.  He thoroughly went through the vehicle to check for any left behind items, gave us big hugs and wished us well for the remainder of our safari.

Although all the bookings for this trip were handled through Kenya based All Seasons Safaris, and Migada was only contracted for the transportation part, I can see from their great guides, good vehicles, attention to details and desire for feedback, that this company is a very good one.   I would not hesitate to book with them again, and I surely know who I’d be asking for as my guide!  It is my pleasure to be able to post positive feedback about a local Tanzanian company that I could find next to nothing about.  They are a real gem.

After 8 days in Tanzania, we were met at the Namanga border by another guide with All Seasons – Symon.  We spent the remaining 5 days with him.  Although Symon is not into photography as Daniel is, nonetheless, he goes pole pole in an effort to let you take all the photos you need.  He is pleasant and knows a great deal about the locations and animals.  Although I’m not truly a birder, when I mentioned to him that any birds that might be located close to the road I’d like to take photos of, he would point them out and knew what they were.  I did have some concerns that I was able to spot some animals (including the most elusive caracal) before Symon did.  I admit, I’ve been rather spoiled on my past 2 trips traveling with a Gold Level guide and I am used to spotting animals in wildlife parks.  Maybe it is just luck.  I also think it is difficult for a guide, when the client has been out for 15 days prior to being with them, to know what animals you have seen or not.  So if you are looking for something special, be sure to mention your desires to your guide.  After the last park, Tsavo West, Symon transported us back to our dayroom at the Fairview and on to the airport.

Prior to departing for the airport, Alex met us at the Fairview for feedback regarding our trip.  He had evaluation forms to fill out but also seriously listened to how we felt not only All Seasons but Migada did on our trip.  I sincerely appreciated getting to meet him and for the chance to provide feedback.  He showed sincere desire to use the information to continue to improve in the future.  I would not hesitate to travel with All Seasons again.

 

The Best of the Trip

 

The JOY of visiting not only my boy Kithaka, my previously adopted elephant, but also my new ellie and his pal Barsilinga up close and personal at the Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage in Nairobi

Lots and lots of hyenas with pups and learning more about them from Lily, a graduate student with Michigan State University (my alma mater) who is assisting with the hyena research project in the Mara

A mother hippo with a three week old baby enjoying the morning sunshine

The fun of enjoying a boat ride around Lake Naivasha which wasn’t even on my planned itinerary

Being the first to spot the rare caracal in Tsavo West

Having Guide Ikamba wake me from a short nap while driving in the Ngorongoro Crater to point out that he spotted a serval

Capturing the image of four crowned cranes who popped up their heads at the same time

Falling asleep listening to lions roaring and hyenas yipping in the distance at Tarangire

The amazing way that elephants communicate with each other

The thrill of being able to photograph several leopards, including two especially close

A very up close encounter by a male bull elephant for over 45 minutes while he was enjoying his breakfast

Knowing that even though I thought this might be my last trip to Africa, that I will be returning to what feels like my second home!

 

The Less than Best of the Trip

 

Feeling bad for the poor warthog that was caught off guard by two lionesses

Wondering where all the male lions have disappeared to (but knowing they must be there because there are lots of cubs)

Saying good bye to my young ellies Kithaka and Barsilinga, wish them well, and hope to see him again before they are returned to the wild

Leaving Africa……

 

Favorite Photos