Africa March 2017: Itinerary & Favorite Photos

Travel dates for this trip were March 5-March 17.  Itinerary and accommodations are as follows (number in parenthesis is the number of nights stayed at the lodging).

This seventh trip to Kenya was all about change… stepping outside my comfort zone.  Every part of the trip was different.  I chose to work with a different tour operator.  I chose new areas to stay in out in the bush.  One even had bucket showers which was new to me.  And instead of driving with the same guide location to location, I flew on the small bush planes to each location and used camp guides.  I think the biggest challenge of the trip was the luggage restrictions (33 pounds in total for all luggage) when flying on the small planes.  My camera necessities are almost half of the total weight.  Was the trip a success?  Absolutely!  I’m already contemplating my next adventure.

 

Nairobi  The Southern Sun Mayfair Hotel (2)

[NOTE: This hotel closed January 31, 2000]  This was my first stay at the Southern Sun Mayfair Hotel.  I chose this place as it looked similar in style to the Fairview but was less expensive.

On arrival at 12:30 am, the front desk staff was very welcoming.  Knowing I was tired, they gave me a brief explanation and said in the morning when I came for breakfast, any additional questions could be answered.  The porter gave me a helpful tour of the room.

The room had plenty of space.  The bed slightly hard for my tastes but I find that common in Kenya.  Bathroom was very clean with a deep soaking tub.  The room seemed a little warm and the windows didn’t have screens, so I turned on the ceiling fan.  That was the biggest negative of my stay.  If run at high speed, the fan was quiet.  But at lower speeds, a little noisy.

Wi Fi was easily accessible and very fast.

A breakfast buffet was served by the pool.  The staff were very friendly and welcoming.  One member even stopped by my table to wish me a Happy Women’s Day.  If there was something that you wanted but it was not on the buffet, they were happy to make it.

Although the hotel sits in a busy area, the grounds were very quiet and well maintained with beautiful flowers.  I would definitely stay here again.

Laikipia Wilderness – Laikipia Wilderness Camp (4)

Being in a conservancy, you don’t see other vehicles often and can traverse where you want.  On arrival, I was immediately greeted by all the staff (too many names to remember) and then shown to my tent.

Tents are simple with a storage rack, large basket with blankets if needed, and a beautiful handmade bed.  The mattress for me is too hard but not bad when you’re tired.  The bathroom is attached to the back of the tent and is mostly open to the air.  That does have plusses because things dry quickly.  The shower is a rain shower with hot and cold water all day (the water boilers are outside a couple of tents).  Once the water gets hot, turn it back as it is really hot.  There is a flush toilet and sink.  Note if hand washing, the water can appear very cloudy.  Laundry is included in the camp rates.  There was electricity in the tent at all times.  If I had one suggestion, it would be to have a little more light over the sink area for putting in contacts or shaving.  There is a power strip under the bed which you can charge items on.  All the plugs were taken so when I used it, I just unplugged a lamp.  There is no ceiling fan but usually there is a nice breeze.  At bedtime, it was always comfortably cool.  Drinking water was provided in carafes and was filtered and great.

The main tent has a large table where everyone dines together along with the camp managers and gap students.  Manager Steve was there but Annabelle was not.  Students George and Immy were very entertaining and interesting to talk with.  Immy was particularly helpful in creating a hot spot for me to assure my husband all was safe in the area.  While I was there, the internet was totally down.  Every time you are in there, beverages are available at no additional charge – wine, beer, soft drinks, juice, water and coffee.  The camp dogs are very friendly and make themselves at home.

Prior to going out around 4pm, tea is served with some type of cake or cookies.  When you arrive back at camp it’s more beverages and relaxing around a fire with snacks before dinner.  One gets spoiled very quickly.

My main guide Mugami was very good in positioning the vehicle to get good photographs and very persistent in tracking the wild dogs as well as other wildlife.  I did spy a striped hyena before him on one occasion and he was happy to see it as well.

Fly camping was offered during my stay.  Two couples that were there participated in the activity.  I chose not to due to an ongoing back issue and the sleeping pads didn’t look like they would make my back very happy.  One day while we were out tracking the dogs which I had thought we’d be doing in our usual manner (from the vehicle), Steve decided to divert to a bush walk and have the driver pick us up down the road.  I wish I had known this in advance and I would have prepared with better walking shoes.

Another bit of confusion was in regards to tipping.  Normally, I’ve followed the guidelines of tipping the Guide, Spotter and Camp Staff.  According to the information in the booklet provided in the room, it was suggested you give the entire tip to one of the Camp Managers and they would distribute it according to the positions the staff held and not to tip directly as it upset the coherence of such.  Since I spent most of my time with one guide, I felt I’d be tipping him more but apparently not.

On my last afternoon and evening, Steve had to be away from the camp but he brought in neighbors Baron and Polly to look after me.  The other guests had departed.  I really enjoyed our conversations.

The main reason I came to this camp was to have more interaction with the wild dogs.  At times, you are allowed to get out of the vehicle and sit with them.  Two in the packs have radio collars which make it fairly easy to find them.  A few of the times when we found them, they were lazily sleeping in the shade.  One evening in the darkness on our way back to camp, we found them laying in the road.  It was really enjoyable sitting in the road, with only the lights of the vehicle, while the pack was jumping and running through the brush and particularly exciting when 2 of the younger ones flew over my head.

I would definitely stay here again.

Mara North Conservancy – Offbeat Mara Camp (4)

I had heard good things about this camp including a lot from a friend who had been here in December.  Everything lived up to the great reviews.

On arrival, camp manager Jesse  welcomed me to the camp.  I had been picked up by Kilmani and Joseph at the Mara North airstrip who were my guides throughout my stay.

Jesse thoroughly explained where everything was including telling me about the bucket showers.  This is my 7th trip to Kenya but my first experience with bucket showers.  They were fine.  Now I could not stand in hot water for 10 minutes like at home, but there is certainly enough water to wash your hair and get totally cleaned.  You just shut off the water while you lather up.

I was in tent number 2 which had plenty of room with an extremely comfortable king size bed.  There is plenty of lighting, a desk if needed, seating inside and outside, attached bathroom with double sinks, flush toilet, shower and clothing storage.

From your comfy lounge on the deck of the tent, wildlife can be watched.  The camp is not fenced so anything goes.  I sat and watched a nearby group of elephants grazing.

At 6pm, they turn on the chargers and internet in the main mess tent for 4 hours.  Although you don’t want to spend your safari on the internet, it is good to be able to contact family back home, especially when  you travel solo.  Internet was very fast.  There are also plenty of charging stations for your batteries or laptop.  There are no plugs in the tents for charging so it must be done here.

The staff are constantly looking after you.  Nothing is too much trouble.  Beverages including wine and beer are generously offered.  I imagine there are others as well.  Food quality is excellent.  On arrival Jesse asked me if I had any allergies or things I didn’t eat.  I really appreciated that.

Jesse had an excellent system of a check off sheet to make sure everything was in order for the balance of the day.  At dinner, he asked what time would I like a wake-up call, what would I like to have for my beverage to be brought to my tent, would I like a shower, did I want to have breakfast at camp or a bush breakfast, and what would I like to do for activities.  My preference is to return to camp during the heat of the day for lunch and to relax.  When Jesse joined me for lunch, he asked what I would like to do for the afternoon, did I want to do a sundowner and what beverage would I like.  On the way back to camp at the end of the day, the guides would ask if I wanted a shower and they would radio back to the camp to let them know to have the bucket shower waiting.

In the morning, do not be surprised to hear a zipper noise from the bathroom.  There are openings in the part of the tent by the double sinks where they reach in and leave pitchers of warm water for washing up in the morning if desired.

My guide Joseph and Spotter Kilmani were amazing.  They are excellent spotters and are totally familiar with the animals in the Mara North Conservancy.  They are also well experienced in positioning the vehicle to get great photographs.  That I really appreciated.

I really enjoyed my stay and all the included options of breakfast out in the bush, sundowners, bush walks, game drives, night game drives, beverages, laundry service and campfire conversations.  Everyone makes you feel at home which as a solo traveler, means a lot.  This camp has bumped itself right up to the top of my favorite place to stay in the Mara.

Nairobi – Eka Hotel – Dayroom

This was my first stay at the Eka Hotel.  Although only for a day room, I found it to be a very nice hotel.  Staff were extremely nice and helpful.  I asked about getting my boarding pass printed, and they gave me the email address for the front desk.  I was able to log into my airline from my room and send the boarding pass to their printer.  After it printed, they put it in an envelope and delivered it to my room.  This was extremely helpful. 

It is customary for check out time to be 6pm but since my flight was at midnight, the front desk person said I could have the room until 7pm.  Once in the room, the ac is adjustable and was nice to have while repacking everything.  Wi Fi was very fast.  The shower was wonderful after having bucket showers for the past few days.  They provide an assortment of complimentary toiletries as well as a pot for making tea or coffee along with packaged cookies.

The hotel is nice in that it is close to the international airport.  However, if I were to stay overnight, I’d request a room on the side away from the main road (which is noisy).

I enjoyed dinner at Spurs which is in the hotel.  The food I ordered (an oversized hamburger with onion rings, french fries and a coke) was very good and reasonably priced (950 KES).  Make sure to allow time for your dining experience.  I arrived at 4pm and it didn’t seem particularly busy.  The total time from ordering to receiving the check was 1 hour plus 20 minutes.  They have free wi fi but it kept dropping the connection.  Apparently this is a popular place to eat as it was very crowded when I left.

Traveling with Amazing Memories Safaris

Traveling to Kenya is not new to me.  This trip in March 2017 was my 7th visit.  When trying a new trip operator, I have typically put them under the microscope.  For the last 3 trips, I traveled with All Seasons Safaris.  My first trip went well so I traveled with them the next 2 trips.  All went well with only a couple of minor issues revolving around the mPesa system.  More recently, a couple of clients I had referred to them (which I have always followed up with) had more significant issues.  Based on those issues, I decided to get quotes from other operators.

I requested a quote from Amazing Memories Safaris.  From my initial contact, Anne was extremely helpful and communicated professionally.  For this trip, a slightly shorter one, I decided to go to only 2 different camps but stay 4 nights in each.  The most significant change was that instead of traveling in a van with the same driver/guide throughout the whole trip, I opted to fly to locations.  This was a big challenge to me because of the total weight restriction of 15 KG (33 lbs total for all luggage).  My camera gear weighs almost half of that allowance.  Anne assured me that I could do it, but also offered to store anything I wished to leave in Nairobi with her to decrease weight to the bush.  Excellent.  The challenge was on.

Originally I was thinking I’d travel in June but the international flights were a lot higher in price.  By traveling in March, the low season, I took advantage of the lower air fares, as well as one camp (Offbeat Mara) offered a special, pay for 3 nights, stay 4.  The other camp (Laikipia Wilderness Camp) had low season rates.  And the best part, both camps did not have a single supplement which is good because I travel solo.

On my initial arrival into the Nairobi airport, although the plane was on time, clearing immigration (with my eVisa in hand) took 1 hour plus 20 minutes.  I was one of the first persons to exit the plane but due to some sloppy handling of the lines, one of the last to clear their check point.  Luckily my bag was still there waiting for me.  I was never so happy to see my tour operators waiting for me.  It was a very late night for them as we didn’t arrive at Southern Sun Mayfair until 12:30am.

Even though I had been to Kenya 6 times, I had many questions for Anne, especially those that involved the air travel portion on the domestic flights.  I was unaware that during the low seasons, often the small planes either don’t fly or if they have only 1 passenger, that person has to purchase a 2nd seat (the policy on Safarilink).  Now I’m all for feeling like you have your own plane, but I didn’t want to have to book an extra seat.  Anne said she could find a solution.  What she was able to do, was to have me fly to Nanyuki and then instead of flying directly to the Mara (where I was the only passenger), she had me fly back to Wilson and then fly from there back out to the Mara.  That solved purchasing the extra seat.  She also said someone from the company would come to Wilson on that day I had to make the transfer to another domestic airline to help me with my luggage so I wouldn’t have to carry it and strain my back.  I was impressed.  As it turned out, there must have been a change on flight passengers because I was the only person on the flight from Nanyuki back to Wilson but Anne said they would take care of the charge.

A big concern I had during this trip had to do with the disputes going on between the cattle herdsman and the ranch owners in the Laikipia area.  I was extremely nervous not knowing what was happening on the ground.  Anne stayed in continuous contact with Annabelle from Laikipia Wilderness Camp as to the situation and said there were no problems there and there were currently guests at the camp.  This reassurance from Anne went a long way to making me feel more comfortable (as well as my husband at home who was very concerned).

Anne also communicated well to the camps about my preference to have a larger bed as well as my dietary requests.  On arrival to the camps, they verified this information.

Upon arrival at Wilson (coming back from Laikipia) Anne and company co-owner Joseph met me at Safarilink to assist me with my bags to SAX airline for the next flight.  Since there was some time between flights, we had the opportunity to talk more.  They wanted to know all about my experiences so far and was there anything they needed to correct.  No, all was perfect.    They waited until my flight was called to make sure I was off on the next part of my adventure, the Mara.

When I arrived back from the Mara, Anne was there to greet me again.  I had a day room at the Eka Hotel and she got me checked in, even getting them to extend their normal 6pm check out time to 7pm to give me some extra time prior to my flight home at midnight.  At 8pm, I was picked up promptly by my driver for the short trip to the airport and the long flight home.

My experience with Amazing Memories Safaris was excellent.  They are very professional and go the extra mile to make sure all your desires are met (and then some).  They have bumped to the top of my list of tour operators to use when I return and I would definitely refer others to them.

The Best of the Trip

Once again, having two great visits at The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (public time and adoptive parent time).  I thoroughly enjoyed getting to talk to Edwin, their head keeper again as well as meeting keeper Cheplin and his elephant Jotto.  It was also great to reconnect with keeper Julius who I had not seen since 2012 when he first introduced me to my ellie Kithaka.  Most of all, meeting my new adopted ellie Malkia who had the sweetest personality.

Opening my mind to the challenges of new experiences.  Flying on the small planes out to the bush gave me a different perspective to the land and distances between locations.  I stayed in two new locations and thoroughly enjoyed them.  I learned that I can get by without taking all the comforts of home in order to meet the weight restrictions of the smaller planes. And I mastered the art of the bucket shower!

An incredible experience up close and personal with a pack of wild dogs.  They are extremely inquisitive and their pack behavior interesting to experience first hand.

Sitting and watching a mother elephant with her baby (less than a week old) enjoying the fresh grasses and mud from the recent rains.  The little one really struggled to walk a straight line and provided entertainment to the guides as well as myself.  Be safe baby.

The Less than Best of the Trip

Knowing that all great things must come to an end.  When I board the plane for the flights back to the U.S., I always shed a tear and think about how soon I’ll be able to return.

Favorite Photos and Video

 

One of the most amazing and entertaining parts of this journey was coming across a mother elephant with her baby which the guide said was under a week old.  Watching its behavior was pure joy.  You can see the video on YouTube at New Born Elephant

This is another YouTube link to video I took at night sitting in the road with the wild dogs.  Unfortunately, being dark, the camera is trying to focus.  Link is at Wild Dog Video