Africa Jan. 2020: Itinerary & Favorite Photos

Travel dates for this trip were January 29-February 12.  Itinerary and accommodations are as follows (number in parenthesis is the number of nights stayed at the lodging).

For my ninth trip to Kenya, I blended part of the trip traveling over land with my guide Daniel who has accompanied me on 4 other safaris as well as flying to the Mara.  When planning this trip, due to the heavy rains which flooded out a camp I was to stay in during my 2018 trip, it was suggested that I travel in February rather than March.  The Mara portion of the trip was significantly impacted by heavy rains yet again.  However, it didn’t seem to impact wildlife viewing.  I returned to what I consider my favorite parts of Kenya, driving to Sweetwaters and then flying out to the Mara for a week, staying in two locations.  I have to admit that this trip tested my sense of adventure.  Luckily, I survived it.  Already thinking of my next adventure.

Top Photo Picks

Roho – My Newest Elephant Chubbie

Here is the more detailed information about my latest adoption: https://laurenajenkinshoffmeyer.com/laurena/my-elephant-chubbies/#Roho_The_New_Kid_on_the_Block

Kiko – My Favorite Giraffe

I first met Kiko at the Orphanage on my trip in 2015. I have enjoyed seeing he grew in size on my trips in 2017, 2018 and 2020. After I returned home in February 2020, I learned of his move. I’m so glad he will be sharing it with friends of his own kind. Below is his story told by the Trust, followed by a couple of favorite photos I’ve taken. I’ve also included a video of his move taken by the Trust.

Kiko arrived into our care from Meru National Park in 2015 – just days old after he lost his mother, we suspect at the hands of poachers – tiny and bewildered at first, he quickly settled into life at the Nursery and became an intrinsic part of our elephant orphan herd. He has throughout his time at the Nursery kept everyone on their toes with his distinctly Kiko way of life — that is, doing whatever he wanted and daring anyone to stand in his way!

As time marched on and Kiko continued to blossom upwards, it was clear he was outgrowing Nursery life and we began plans for Kiko’s translocation, but a brush with lions early last year forced a delay. To provide him with more spacious sleeping arrangements, we had moved him into a night-time stockade with very high wooden sides. This was a good arrangement, until near disaster struck in the early hours of 23rd January 2019: a lioness somehow scaled the stockade’s 16-foot posts and attacked our beloved giraffe. Kiko held his own admirably and, fortuitously, a Keeper heard the fracas and was able to stop the assault. Kiko’s injuries were not life-threatening, but he did require an operation to stitch up the gashes inflicted by the lion, along with plenty of time to recuperate from the ordeal. Kiko has been fully recovered for some time, but an exceptionally long rainy season further delayed his translocation.

At long last, however, the time came around for him to move north to Sirikoi, a spectacular wilderness on the border of Lewa Conservancy. The journey was some 270 kilometers long by road, taking Kiko north, though the city of Nairobi and beyond, with the many obstacles that could potentially present themselves. Needless to say, there were plenty of sleepless nights spent anticipating what lay ahead on this journey. We assembled an all-star team to accompany the move, including the Kenya Wildlife Service Capture Unit, our Laikipia Mobile Veterinary Unit headed by KWS vet Dr. Mijele, Kiko’s Keeper, an SWT mechanic, in the event of any vehicle drama along the way, and Angela Sheldrick, and her sons Taru, and Roan. We built a special translocation crate, which was meticulously prepared for its precious cargo, including soft foam lining to its edges and lots of delicious food placed appropriately. Moving a nearly full-grown giraffe presents a unique set of obstacles, such as the various sets of wires crossing the road on the route we’d have to take, but we were well-prepared for these and our workshop team created custom ‘plastic forks’ with extra-long arms that could be used to push up the wires and prevent them posing a problem for Kiko’s towering form.

With our precious cargo loaded, the convoy was ready to embark north to Sirikoi. Kiko certainly attracted a good deal of attention as he passed through Nairobi, leaving pedestrians gawking and passing vehicles lingering along the road. In typical Kiko fashion, he seemed rather unfazed by the proceedings. The crate was large enough that he was able to turn around and choose which way he wanted to face, and as the journey got underway, looking backwards seemed to be his preferred vantage point. Thankfully, there were no glitches along the way except for a short break after the vehicle overheated while battling the high altitudes during the ascent towards Timau town. This unscheduled stop allowed Kiko to get some attention from the team, but he hardly needed the reassurance and looked in remarkably good form.

As the 270km, eight-hour, journey to Sirikoi drew to a close, the landscape changed. You could see Kiko’s interest visibly heightened as we drove onto the Lewa Conservancy through plains of whistling thorns and yellow fever trees, teaming with buffalos, impalas, zebras, rhinos, and even herds of reticulated giraffes. He seemed to sense that this place was feeling much more like home.

In advance of Kiko’s move, we had constructed a stockade at Sirikoi that mirrored his at the Nursery. He clearly recognized this familiar building and followed his Keeper into his new stockade without hesitation. You could sense how comfortable he was in there, surrounded by the delicious cut browse of acacia, lucerne cubes, and water, just as he was used to enjoying at the Nursery.

Then came the most exciting part of the move. Sirikoi was a perfect next destination for Kiko for a number of reasons, not least of which is the presence of another orphaned reticulated giraffe. Nditu is a beautiful eight-year-old girl, and she has been hand-raised at Sirikoi since her own infancy. She was kept away while Kiko first arrived, but at last the time had come for their grand introduction. When she was led into the compound and saw another giraffe standing there, she immediately shied away, evidently horrified to find a roommate in her stockade! She was rather put out at first, but it wasn’t long before she settled down.

In addition to Nditu, Kiko now shares his quarters area with a much smaller roommate: Since the stockades were built, Nditu has shared her bedroom with a fluffy white rabbit named Bun Bun, who joins her in the stockade each night. As Kiko settled in for his first night at Sirikoi, Bun Bun and another rabbit friend hopped into the stockade as usual. Kiko took it all in his stride, happy to share his stockade with Nditu next door and the pair of bunnies hopping around between the two. It was sweet to watch how seamlessly this unusual friendship unfolded, but not surprising: Kiko has grown up exposed to so many different animal babies over the years, and is unperturbed by most new faces.

The next day, Kiko woke up rather grumpy. However, he soon settled in and spent the day browsing in Nditu’s company. Nditu has taken a maternal interest in him, choosing to remain close and keeping him company, when she could quite easily leave him behind to continue with her usual daily routine. It is so heart-warming to see how quickly their bond is forming, even in just the few days that Kiko has been at Sirikoi. He is finally hanging out with his own kind and appears to be loving every minute of it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dXyess0JDuI

Nairobi – The Fairview Hotel (2)

I continue to enjoy my stays at The Fairview.  This was my 4th stay here.  After the long flight to get to Kenya, I enjoy being able to walk about the grounds and look at birds as well as stretch my legs.  My room #19, was just at the top of the stairs.  Like my room #18 on my last stay, it is not a huge room, but adequate for one person.  Since my last stay, the room had been refreshed with paint and the bathroom updated.  There is now a shower stall with glass block divider.  It looks nice, however the water easily splashes out onto the floor.  There was plenty of hot water but it was sensitive to control.  There is also a retractable clothes line for washing out clothing.  During my stay, the door lock (key card) was a continuous problem.  Every time I tried to re-enter, I had to return to the desk to get another key made or get assistance.  I’m not sure what the problem was.  The only meals I ate here were the breakfast buffet which is always excellent, especially the mixed chi tea.  The chef making the omelets did an excellent job and was fun to speak to.  Just a very happy person.  All the other employees at the hotel (front desk, restaurant and porters) were all very sociable.  I love that the grounds are so quiet even though you are in the middle of the city.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy – Sweetwaters (3)

I’ve become a well seasoned guest at Sweetwaters.  This was my 6th stay.  On check in, I was excited to hear that I would be returning to Tent #1, my favorite location.  Tent #1 in my opinion, is the best situated tent to water hole viewing.  You can easily sit on your porch or even at the desk inside with the tent flaps open and watch/photograph the birds.  During lunch one day, I spotted a Black Rhino at the water hole and made a quick dash to my tent to take photos.  I know many people find the newer wing of tents an upgrade.  They are beautifully furnished.  But for me, the animals seem to come closer to the older side making photography easy.

Meals here are always enjoyable.  They are all buffet but I like that because I can pick and choose what I want.  In addition to the prepared items, there is always a pasta station where you can choose your meat, sauce, vegetables and garnishes.  Always excellent.

Laundry service is available for a nominal fee.  It makes it so much easier to not have to take the volume of clothing I once did.

I had learned during my stay that Ol Pejeta House (where I stayed in 2010) had closed.  A person working in the dining room overheard me mentioning that I wondered where those staff went.  One morning after breakfast, a woman by the name of Juliana stopped by my tent.  She learned that I had wondered what happened to the staff at Ol Pejeta House and stopped by to say hi.  She had worked there and was now working in the newer wing at Sweetwaters.

My last stay here was in March, 2018.  I was pleasantly surprised to see that James, the dining room manager, was still here.  I’ve enjoyed our conversations on many visits.  He introduced me to chef Daniel, who rapidly learned that chocolate desserts were my favorite.  Harrison who had been my server on my last stay was also here as well as Abdul my tent attendant. Their memories are amazing.  I truly enjoyed the conversations I had with them.

Excursion with the Northern White Rhinos in Ol Pejeta Conservancy

While staying at Ol Pejeta Conservancy I made a reservation to do the Visit to the Northern White Rhinos. Sudan, the last male Northern White Rhino passed shortly after my visit in 2018. That leaves only two female Northern White Rhinos remaining globally. I had to see them up close and personal.

The northern white rhino is one of two subspecies of rhino, the other being the southern white rhino.  On December 20, 2009, Najin and Fatu were brought to the Ol Pejeta Conservancy from the Dvur Kralove Zoo in the Czech Republic along with Sudan (who was caught in the wild in 1975).  Najin, born in captivity in 1989, is the mother of Fatu.  Najin’s mother was Nasima and her father was Sudan (Sudan was the last male northern white rhino who passed away at Ol Pejeta on March 19, 2018.  Fatu, was also born in captivity in 2000.  Her mother is Najin and her father was Saut.

In August 2019, 10 egg cells (5 from Najin and 5 from Fatu) were harvested to be artificially inseminated with the frozen sperm of a northern white rhino.  In September 2019, scientists announced that they fertilized in-vitro the eggs with frozen sperm taken from dead males; two of the resulting embryos were viable.  On January 15, 2020, it was also announced that “another embryo” was created using the same techniques; all three embryos are “from Fatu”, and are stored in liquid nitrogen until they can be placed into a surrogate mother, probably a southern white rhino.

Mara North Conservancy – Offbeat Mara Camp (4)

I was so excited to be able to return to Offbeat after my stay in 2018 was derailed by Mother Nature.

On arrival, the new camp manager, Jennifer and many of the staff were there to welcome me to the camp.  After what I thought was going to be a quick and easy flight from Nanyuki to Mara North which turned out to be a several hour delay by the airlines, I was never so happy to see my previous guides Kimani and Joseph waiting at the airstrip.  They were my guides throughout my stay.

Since my last visit in 2017, the main Mess Tent has undergone a beautiful renovation.  The lounge area has added a homey fireplace which is a great place to sit on those cooler evenings.  The indoor dining area also has increased in size along with a much larger bar area, complete with plenty of charging stations.  An extended deck area overlooking the river below is a wonderful place to enjoy an outdoor lunch during the heat of the day.  It’s well shaded with lots of birds to watch.  There had been some heavy rains prior to my arrival and the river that flows just below this deck showed a significant increase in volume.  However, on one of the trees, there was a sign noting the height of the water during the flood in 2018.  Wow, no wonder I was moved to a different camp a few days before my scheduled arrival.  I don’t know how many feet the river was above normal, but it was significant.

At my request, I was in Tent #2 again which had plenty of room with an extremely comfortable king size bed.  In addition to the large bed, all of the regular tents (those that were not family tents) also have a single bed as well.  There is plenty of lighting, a desk if needed, seating inside and outside, attached bathroom with double sinks, flush toilet, bucket shower and clothing storage.  In the morning, do not be surprised to hear a zipper noise from the bathroom.  There are openings in the part of the tent by the double sinks where they reach in and leave pitchers of warm water for washing up in the morning if desired.

The camp is not fenced so wildlife can be anywhere.  While drifting off to sleep, hyenas, lions and other large animals can be heard.  During the hours of darkness, you will be escorted to and from the main tent by an askari (security person) who is always on the lookout for wildlife.

Wi fi is now available at the main area any time of the day.  That is very helpful as a solo traveler to be able to stay in contact with family at home.  Internet was very fast.  There are also plenty of charging stations for your batteries or laptop.  There are no plugs in the tents for charging so it must be done here.

The staff are constantly looking after you.  Nothing is too much trouble.  Beverages including wine and beer as well as other cocktails are generously offered.  Don’t laugh, this was my first introduction to a Gin and Tonic and they sure know how to make it great!  Food quality as well as presentation is excellent.  Communication between my travel operator and Offbeat was perfect.  They knew on arrival that I could not have cinnamon or seafood.  I really appreciated that.

Jennifer, the new Manager since my last stay, had an excellent system of a check off sheet to make sure everything was in order for the balance of the day and the following morning.  At dinner, she asked what time would I like a wake-up call, what would I like to have for my beverage to be brought to my tent, would I like a shower, did I want to have breakfast at camp or a bush breakfast, and what would I like to do for activities.  My preference is to return to camp during the heat of the day for lunch and to relax.  It was very enjoyable having Jennifer join the guests at mealtimes.  We would share stores about our game drives, get to know other guests and overall, enjoy a lot of conversation. 

My guide Joseph and Spotter Kimani were amazing.  They are excellent spotters and are totally familiar with the animals in the Mara North Conservancy.  They are also well experienced in positioning the vehicle to get great photographs.  That I really appreciated.  With the rains that had occurred prior to my arrival, Joseph’s ability to drive throughout the conservancy without getting stuck, was beyond me.  I’d last 30 seconds, if that.  Towards the end of the late afternoon game drive, we’d stop to enjoy a sundowner, taking in the breathtaking landscape.  Then, on the way back to camp at the end of the day, the guides would ask if I wanted a shower and they would radio back to the camp to let them know to have the hot bucket shower waiting. I really enjoyed my stay and all the included options of breakfast out in the bush, sundowners, bush walks, game drives, night game drives, beverages, laundry service and campfire conversations.  Everyone makes you feel at home which as a solo traveler, means a lot.  I really enjoy staying in the conservancies because they are quieter and the animals more relaxed.  This camp continues to be one of my favorite places to stay in the Mara.

Naboisho Conservancy – Basecamp Eagle View (3)

After a two hour drive from Offbeat Mara, I arrived at Basecamp Eagle View.  From the moment I arrived, I felt welcomed.  I was checked in by the receptionist, then the new Manager, Tony came and introduced himself.  He knew I had been there before.  My Room, Tent #3, was not quite ready as the previous guests checked out a little late.  I relaxed and chatted with Tony and enjoyed the view while he got up and attended to others as they departed.

Tent #3 is a walk up the path not too far from the main dining area and lounge.  The tent was very large, elevated on stilts to give you a good view of the valley below.  The bathroom area had double sinks with an inside shower as well as an outside shower.  The hot water is run by a solar system.  On this stay, there was plenty of sun during the day for the water to be nice and hot.  If you like to enjoy a shower in the morning, the water can be cooler due to no sun overnight.  Towels are provided but if you like a wash cloth, mention it to them and they are happy to furnish.    My large bed was very comfortable.  The tent attendants seem to come and go when they know you are not there so you are not disturbed.  Every time I’d returned, everything had been attended to.  They picked up laundry from the basket in the bathroom area in the morning and depending on the sun for drying, it was returned either that night or once, the next day.  Tents have an abundance of plugs to charge camera batteries, etc. and good lighting.

Dining is in the main area where there is a beautiful view of the valley below.  All meals are served, not buffet.  They are very accommodating to dietary restrictions.  Each meal, the servers would come and welcome you and then tell you what was being served and ask if that was ok.  I found their food to be very good.  If you want a little more of anything, just ask.  In the dining/lounge/bar area, free wi-fi is available.  It is only available in this area.  It is quite fast unless it is really cloudy which I’ve found is common in the bush.

When it is dark outside (early morning and dinner time), you are escorted to the main area from your tent.  The local security team are generally very close to each tent.  As soon as they hear a tent zipper, a light will pop out of the bush along with a friendly greeting.  They always made sure I had plenty of light on the steps.  Wildlife is everywhere here.  One afternoon, while relaxing on the deck, a giraffe browsed up the hill enjoying the greens while I sat very still.  When I moved, he just calmly walked back down the hill.  One night before drifting off to sleep, several elephants seemed to be unhappy about being chased by what sounded like a lion.  There was a lot of trumpeting in the darkness.  The next morning, I could see the evidence that the ellies had been there by the poo along the path (which was picked up promptly when discovered).

During my stay, Tony assigned Steve to be my guide.  He was extremely engaging and also enjoyed photography.  We shared many good laughs, especially when we discovered on our full day out to go to the Main Mara Reserve that we had eaten our box lunch at breakfast, leaving our breakfast for lunch.  He went out of his way to be helpful getting a coke crate to make getting into the vehicle a lot easier and making sure when I was climbing in and out, I didn’t miss any steps.  He also made a point of carrying my photo gear backpack (which is pretty heavy) saying he was a “strong boy”. 

I had many enjoyable conversations with Tony, the Manager.  During my stay, he dined with me a few times, which as a solo traveler is really nice.  I can tell he genuinely cares about the guests who stay here and treats everyone like family.  It was also nice that he let my former guides Derrick and Edward who were currently at a different Base Camp, know that I was there so they could stop by and say hi.

I stayed here in 2018 only because my camp that I had booked has sustained rain damage.  This trip, I chose to come back because my last stay was so enjoyable.  I highly recommend this camp and certainly will return.

Nairobi – Eka Hotel Dayroom

This was my 3rd stay at the Eka Hotel as a day room.  The location is good as it is just a short distance from the International Airport.  I checked into room 323 around 2pm.  The rooms are comfortable and very modern including air conditioning.  It does however, take your room key to have the ac on so it was warm on arrival but cools down pretty fast.

After repacking for my late evening flight and getting cleaned up, I went downstairs to enjoy another excellent meal at Spurs.  Their servings are very generous and reasonable.  I had a coke and a cheeseburger (that came with yummy onion thin rings as well as fries).  Although the cheeseburger was 800 KES ($8 USD) and the coke 200 KES ($2 USD), the total bill was 1950 KES ($19.50 USD) but their tax rate seems to be 28%.

I also asked the front desk about printing my boarding pass.  Before this trip, they would just have me print it to the front desk and they would put it in an envelope and slip it under your door.  Now they have you go to the Business Center where there is no charge for printing. It was a little interesting when returning to my room.  I assumed that since I was in 323, my room would be on the 3rd floor.  When I got into the elevator and saw that there was no 3rd floor button, I stopped at the gift shop to ask what was I missing.  I was told it was on Floor 1.  Apparently, they do that for added security.

Traveling with Amazing Memories Safaris

This is my 3rd time making my travel plans with Amazing Memories Safaris.  It is not surprising to me why they have “Amazing” in their company name.  You could not ask for a better Tour Operator.  Anne and Joseph have become like family to me.  On this trip, I even got to meet their young son.  I was very excited about that but I think he found Baby Shark more exciting.  Anne and Joseph’s skills truly complement each other.  From the minute I contact them to let them know I’m planning a trip, they are there to answer every question, make suggestions and run interference when a curveball comes up.  Since this was my 9th trip to Kenya, they know the places I like, my allergies, that I like a full size bed (even though I travel solo), what I like to do while in Nairobi and that although I’m exhausted from the long flight, I bounce back pretty quick. 

There is nothing that makes me happier after 17 hours of flight, than seeing my checked bag arrive, and then stepping outside the terminal and finding Anne, her husband Joseph, and my Nairobi driver and friend Joseph 2014 (I first met him in 2014) with smiles and enthusiasm.  I know from that moment on, that even if I have a concern, all will be wonderful and I’ll be taken care of.

I spent my full Nairobi day with Joseph 2014.  He is so engaging.  He is always prompt at picking me up to make sure we get to the public visit at the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust with plenty of time to spare.  He shares my love of the elephants too.  This time, in addition to my usual elephant visits, Kazuri and Karen Hub market shopping, we also both enjoyed visiting a new gallery, Matbronze (at the suggestion of a friend).  Then at the end of the day, we made our way to Carnivore Restaurant for dinner with Anne and Joseph and an evening of laughs.

Since rain heavily impacted my last trip in March 2018, it was suggested maybe I wanted to try coming in February as it typically is less rainy.  I think Mother Nature missed that memo.  The rains came early and although it didn’t impact the wildlife I saw, it did cause some transport issues.  Anne was always on top of it.  It is a slower time to travel (good news is that lodging prices are less) (bad news is that the bush planes require a minimum of 2 seats being booked).  The heavy rains had caused connecting bridges to be washed away so that meant that air strip and ground route changes were necessary.  Anne would keep me informed via email and also let my guide Daniel know the latest updates.  There is no controlling Mother Nature and sometimes you just have to go with it.  But all was as they say, “hakuna matata”.

This was my 5th time having Daniel for my guide.  As a fellow photographer, he knows how important lighting and positioning the vehicle can be.  We have a great time swapping photo tips, catching up on things since my last visit and solving the world’s issues.  He has an excellent ability to spot animals, a great sense of humor, communicates well and generally spoils me rotten.  A guide can make or break a trip, and Daniel sure makes mine. Time always flies so quickly and before I knew it, it was time to arrive back into Nairobi, to check into my day room and prepare for the long flight home.  Even though sad to leave, it was wonderful to see Anne and Joseph and Joseph 2014 come to the hotel to hear about the trip, go over any concerns, and share more laughs before heading to the airport.  Thank you to all for looking after me so well.  I can’t wait to see you again on my next adventure!

The Best of the Trip

Visiting the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust in Nairobi is always a highlight.  The public and adoptive parent visits are very different but going twice gives me added time to be able to see Head Keeper Edwin as well as Keepers Cheplin and Julius.  I was happy to see my boy Maktao doing so well.  My others have moved on to Ithumba to continue their stages towards reintroduction into the wild.  A young male, Roho (who is just over a year old) caught my attention so I added him to my adopted elephant children. 

It was an honor to be in the close presence of the last two globally remaining Northern White Rhinos.  While at Ol Pejeta, I booked an excursion into the enclosure to be with them up close and personal.  I thoroughly enjoyed meeting Joseph Wachira who was Sudan’s (the last male Northern White Rhino) keeper.  Although Najin and Fatu (mother and daughter Northern White Rhinos) were very friendly, their Southern White Rhino friend, also in the pen, was quite feisty (and with a very sharp horn).

Being in the company of my extended family and friends Anne, Joseph, Joseph 2014, and Daniel is always a highlight.  Great conversations with former and new staff at the camps always makes my stays enjoyable.

The Less than Best of the Trip

Just when you think you’ve outsmarted Mother Nature, the joke is on you.  Although the rain did not impact seeing lots of wildlife, it did make it a bit of a challenge getting around from place to place.  But that is all part of the adventure that makes me return over and over.

Favorite Photos