Africa 2012: Itinerary and Favorite Photos

Travel dates for this solo trip were May 6-May 21, 2012 (considered the rainy season).  Itinerary and accommodations are as follows (number in parenthesis is number of nights stayed at lodging):

Lansing to Nairobi via Amsterdam

Nairobi (2) Intercontinental Hotel

On each of my journeys to Nairobi, I’ve stayed at the Intercontinental Hotel.  It has become familiar to me, which is a good feeling after a long trip.  I was in room 560 which appeared to be in the wing that has undergone remodeling.  On my first trip, although the room was adequate, it had an entirely different look.

The breakfast buffet was very good as usual, with a large number of selections.  During this trip, I also ate at the dinner buffet which was labeled as “Spanish”.  There were numerous fish options and since I don’t care for seafood, that meant a more limited selection for me.  There was a very good variety of desserts, so this filled the gap.

The Business Center, located just off the reception desk is great.  You can use your own computer (at a substantial savings) or use one of several they have.  The staff have always been very helpful in making sure everything is working well.  Connection speed is fast.

In general, the staff at the hotel have been friendly and helpful.  I needed additional bottled water in the room, and it was brought to me at no additional charge, and promptly.  There are security guards on each floor.  Again, very personable.

Serena Mountain Village Arusha

The grounds are beautiful with lots to photograph. The food was similar to all the other Serena properties, ok, but nothing special. The Room 20 was a very nice size, clean and had a view of the lake. However, the twin beds were super hard. I like a firm mattress but this was like sleeping on a board. There is a ceiling fan, but it was too noisy to run during the night. The gift shop had a nice selection of items but the prices here were the highest of all the Serena properties I visited. As an example, the Kazuri bead necklaces that sold for approximately $24 at the factory in Karen, were over $100 at this lodge. Yikes! Staff was pleasant.

 

Ngorongoro Conservation Area (2) Serena Ngorongoro Crater

The Ngorongoro Crater Serena sits high up on the crater rim and has beautiful views of the crater floor.  I can’t imagine what it took to carry all the stone that was used to build this lodge to this location.  My room (38 on the upper level) had a private balcony with a fantastic view of the crater.  The room, although somewhat smaller than other Serena properties, was comfortable.  The twin beds were small but comfy.  It was nice having a heater in the bedroom and bathroom area because it does get cool at this elevation at night.  The bathroom was roomy with a stall shower.

At this location, lunch and dinner meals alternate between buffet and served daily.  Breakfast is buffet style.  Note, if you don’t care for the eggs on the buffet, you can ask your server to have your preferred style of eggs cooked for you.  I didn’t realize this until after we left.

WiFi is available.  For those heading out early in the morning, tea and an assortment of cookies are served in the dining area.  You can also arrange for a box breakfast (and lunch I’m sure) which was very good and more than generous.

 

Serengeti National Park (2) Serena Kirawira Tented Camp

Kirawira in the Western Serengeti was one of several Serena lodges I stayed at during this trip.  Based on reviews I had read, I was expecting this property to be outstanding.  Although my tent (Kanga #9) was certainly on the luxury end, with comfortable beds and a very nice bathroom (including a toilet area with a privacy door), I was somewhat disappointed that the food served was basically like all the other Serena properties.  The food was good, but I guess for what they charge for this tented camp, I was expecting the food to be more upscale.  The meals however, were all served, no buffets.  The best part of the meal was the entertaining genet cats that visited the dining tent at dinner time.  They are beautiful.  The pool was refreshing and clean.  Hot water for showers was plentiful.  Electrical power was on 24/7.  WiFi is available although the connection was not very fast.  Note, if you are having laundry done at this location, it is about triple the cost of the other Serena properties on the Northern Circuit.  I found Mbuzi Mawe tented camp in the Serengeti more enjoyable and at a significantly lower price.

 

Serengeti National Park (2) Mbuzi Mawe Tented Camp

Mbuzi Mawe is a wonderful tented camp located in the Serengeti.  This was my favorite Serena property on this trip.  The tents are huge and have two double or queen sized beds.  The colors inside are nice and bright making it light and airy.  Not only was there a desk area with an appropriate height chair but there was a small seating area which was great for reading or journal writing.  The bathroom had double sinks and there was a large reclining lounger on the patio area.  The food was excellent and the staff more attentive than at the other Serena properties.  The best part was the closeness of the wildlife.  Since the camp is not fenced, you are escorted starting early in the evenings.  Good thing as there was a large Cape Buffalo next to my tent after dinner.  There are plenty of photogenic klipspringers throughout and if you’re quiet, they will come very close.  Would definitely stay here again.

 

Lake Manyara (2) Serena Lake Manyara

The grounds at Lake Manyara Serena are very quiet, shaded and pleasant.  My room (53) was located on the upper level and had a nice view of the lake.  Upon arrival, there was a basket of warm cashews and crispy chips on the desk.  Comfortable twin beds, a desk, safe, ceiling fan and plenty of outlets for charging items made the spacious room more than adequate.  The bathroom had a single vanity, stall shower (with lots of hot water although the water pressure was a little low) and came equipped with a hair dryer.

There was a door leading to the private balcony.  Surprisingly, it did not have a screen.  Being located close to the lake, and being the rainy season, I didn’t want to leave the door open for fresh air in case of mosquitoes.  Wildlife, including bushbucks, birds and monkeys were easily viewed from the balcony.

Breakfast and lunch were buffet.  Dinner alternated between served and buffet.  The first day, there were a lot more people staying at this lodge and there was a larger selection of entrees, salads and desserts.  The following day, when there were less people, the variety was smaller.  There was a great local band playing at dinner on the busy evening.

Although WiFi is offered, the service was down at the time.  I inquired at the Business Center about using their computers.  Internet was available although it was an extremely slow connection ($4 for 30 minutes).

There is a beautiful infinity pool.  Although it looked inviting, the temperature was quite cool so I opted not to use it.  I did enjoy sitting poolside and watching the birds dip for drinks of water.

 

Amboseli National Park (2) Serena Amboseli

Another Serena property in a peaceful and shaded location.  The pathway leading to the rooms is nicely landscaped.  My room (49) seemed smaller than other Serena locations.  The twin beds and desk seemed to fill most of the room.  The bathroom was smaller with a single sink.  The stall shower had plenty of hot water with lots of pressure.  All the rooms are on ground level and mine (and I think they all do) had a private balcony with seating.  As an added touch, there was a towel bar mounted on the outside wall which was nice to hang a wet bathing suit from (but keep an eye on it because of the monkeys).  The door leading outside had a secure lock and was screened which was nice for fresh air.  A quiet ceiling fan and adequate charging plugs appointed the room.

The food at this lodge had basically the same options as the other Serena properties.  Breakfast and lunch were buffet, dinner alternated between served and buffet.   Dinner one night was labeled as “African Themed”.  My interest peaked.  Overall, a lot of fish dishes (and again, I’m not a seafood eater) and selections that I heard others (and myself as well) saying not the best food they had eaten at Serena lodges.

There is a large swimming pool located in the shade with plenty of loungers.  The pool temperature was very comfortable.  The staff looking after the pool was particularly friendly.

Although WiFi is available at this lodge, the connection was very slow and the desk staff had to make adjustments on my computer to make it work.

 

Nairobi Ole Sereni Day Room

My stay at this hotel during this trip was only for a day room prior to a late evening flight out of Nairobi. The positive was that it was close to the airport.

The size of the room was nice.  The bed, although a king size, was hard as a board. The glass enclosed shower and toilet area are within the same area, so it is impossible to take a shower without getting water all over the floor in the toilet area. The bath towels were worse than I use for bathing my dogs. I was tempted to put them in the waste basket.

I ate an early dinner in the restaurant. Although the portions are generous (overly so), the prices are extremely high. The worst part was, it took 55 minutes from the time we ordered our food until it arrived and the restaurant was not that crowded (it was a Sunday). We tried to catch the waiter’s attention to inquire when the food might be coming, but he never looked our way. After he brought the food, he never came back to ask if we needed anything or how the food was. In order to get my dining bill, I had to go and get the server from the opposite end of the dining area. I have never had such poor service at any hotel I have ever been to.

I could have just as easily gotten a hotel room in downtown Nairobi for a lower price and spent the time it took to eat to travel to the airport. I would not recommend this hotel.

 

The Best of the Trip

 

The JOY of visiting Kithaka, my adopted elephant, up close and personal at the Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage in Nairobi

Encountering a den of hyena pups – 2 adults and 5 youngsters

The view of the crater from the balcony at the Serena Ngorongoro – breathtaking

Climbing to the top of Observation Point and having several elephants walk very close to us

Watching the sun go down over the Serengeti from the deck outside my tent

Falling asleep listening to lions roaring in the distance while drops of rain fell on the tent roof

Sitting on a rock and watching a pair of klipspringers grazing their way towards me at Mbuzi Mawe

Spotting a mother and juvenile leopard frolicking in a tree after feasting on a kill

Seeing five small lion cubs sitting on a downed tree waiting for mom to return with lunch

Being totally surrounded by a herd of 30 elephants that seemed very comfortable with our presence

Catching a spectacular view of Mt Kilimanjaro at the end of the day

And did I mention visiting Kithaka?

The Less than Best of the Trip

 

Having to say good bye to baby Kithaka, wish him well, and hope to see him again before he is returned to his family

Leaving Africa……

Favorite Photos