Africa Jan. 2025: Itinerary & Favorite Photos

Travel dates for this trip were January 8 – January 24 which oddly were the exact same dates I traveled in 2024.  Itinerary and accommodations are as follows (number in parenthesis is the number of nights stayed at the lodging).

As this was my twelfth trip to Kenya, I pretty much know where I want to visit, stay and see.  I do like to make sure I try at least one new lodging on each visit.

I love flying out of the Lansing, Michigan airport. It’s small, TSA is smooth (although on this outgoing flight, my carry-on bag got diverted for inspection and the TSA employee took EVERYTHING out including all my camera gear and didn’t really know how to make things fit back in so that took a bit of time which is why I go to the airport early), and I can relax before 17 hours of air time to Nairobi. 

The plane pushed back from the gate on time but that is when the fun stopped.  A nose gear mechanical light came on which required we return to the gate, wait for maintenance, refuel the plane, refile the flight plan and leave.  That meant a 1.5 hour delay. As I learned in Girl Scouts, ‘Always Be Prepared’.  I minimally book a 3 hour layover in Detroit and Amsterdam and I carry snacks in case there is no time to grab a bite to eat in a restaurant.

I booked wheelchair assist for this trip as one of my knees was being uncooperative, sometimes to the point of limping. Distance between the gates at Amsterdam can be lengthy. I had a 5 hour layover and was taken by shuttle to their assistance waiting area which is near the main shopping, eating and bathrooms. When I checked in, the woman asked if I could do steps. I said probably but very slowly and I could not carry my carry-on bag up steps (it weighs 23 pounds). She told me I was fine and they would take those of us needing assistance out onto the tarmac by a special bus that lifts up to make it level with the plane entrance. That is what she said. That did not happen.  Instead (and this was a KLM flight because Delta codeshares with them), we were taken by a bus which we had to step up into, very crowded, did not lift to the plane and were greeted by a steep set of steps.  When I asked one of the flight staff if someone could help with my carry-on, he said they were not allowed to do that. What???? A very nice young man walking behind me offered to carry my bag.

I was very happy to arrive in Nairobi at 10:15pm. After clearing immigration, the typical lengthy wait of a checked bag coming off the plane and screening bags before exiting the airport, I arrived at Tamarind Tree Hotel and settled into my room at 12 midnight.

My full day in Nairobi was spent with my driver of many years, Joseph 2014 (the year we met) and included an excursion to visit the elephants at the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (adopting a new ellie Wamata and seeing Talek who I adopted last year), shopping at Galleria Mall for a few grocery items and enjoying lunch at Matbronze with Joseph. After the long flights, it’s always nice to be able to relax with Joseph who is a great conversationalist and gets that I’m jet lagged. The following morning, I flew out to Ol Pejeta Conservancy for a three night stay at The Safari Cottages (my new stay this trip).  Following that, I flew to Mara North for a six night stay at Offbeat Ndoto (loved it a lot last year).  From Ndoto, I flew from Mara North airstrip to Amboseli (making a couple of stops to pick up others) where I stayed for three nights at Elephant Garden Camp (where I stayed last year).

Top Photo Picks

These are my favorite photos from the trip.

Additional Photos

Wamata – My Newest Elephant Chubbie

I always enjoy a visit to the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust which I’ve supported for many years. Talek, who I adopted during last year’s visit was still there, but really growing (which is a good thing). I also enjoy getting to see Edwin and Julius, the elephant whisperers and keepers. On this visit, I adopted Wamata.  At 15 months of age, she was a real cutie.

Nairobi – Tamarind Tree Hotel (2)

I enjoyed my stay here in 2021 and decided for my first two nights in Nairobi, I would stay at this Western style hotel.  The staff are always very helpful and make your stay enjoyable.  The included breakfast buffet is a fantastic way to start the day.  Wi-fi is fast. Beds are very comfortable and water pressure in the room is great. Only room issue I had (which I mentioned to the front desk) is some water was spraying out of the top of the shower head and landing on the floor outside the shower. Also, when I was hand wash something in the sink, when the water drained, it went all over the floor so I wiped it up with a towel to prevent slipping. Wilson Airport is close by which was handy as I was flying to Kamok airstrip in Nanyuki which is pretty close to The Safari Cottages where I was staying.  My Tour Operator hired a company through the hotel, First Class Cruze Company Ltd. to do the airport transfer.  My driver was very nice and made sure to carry everything into the airport for me.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy – The Safari Cottages (3)

On each trip to Kenya, I always like to try at least one new lodging.  A friend of mine had recommended Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages to me and I’m so glad I chose to stay there.  From the moment I arrived, I received a warm welcome.  Andy gave me a thorough orientation of my cottage.  The two friendly dogs also added to the experience.  I was told that one was shy.  That must have been the one who fell asleep at my feet.

The cottages are unbelievable! There is so much room you could get lost in there.  The bed was very comfortable, shower was hot with great water pressure, and the porch area was fantastic to sit and watch the birds or take a nap mid-day.  Every staff person I encountered was super friendly. A chef from the kitchen area next to me explained that the Crowned hornbills visited him all the time at his window.  The meals prepared for me were some of the best I’ve had on 12 trips.  Although I didn’t get to meet Andy’s wife Sonja, Annette joined me for some of my meals which was nice since I was traveling solo.  She was a wealth of conversation.

My guide James did an outstanding job providing me with great photo opportunities.  One late afternoon, a black rhino was close.  James said they were usually shy.  Happily, this one was very relaxed and posed for a number of pictures.  By going out very early in the morning, we were able to be in the midst of wildlife when the action was happening.  We followed a cheetah looking for breakfast and chasing down a young warthog as its meal.  The variety of wildlife included elephants, giraffe, hyenas (with cubs), lions, eland, waterbucks, black and white rhinos, water birds, and one of my favorites, bat-eared foxes.   The beauty of Mt. Kenya as the sun was rising was yet another reason to be out early. As a photographer, another great plus is that each cottage is assigned a private vehicle.

At the end of the afternoon game drive, I knew I’d be welcomed back to camp with a lovely camp fire, an excellent gin and tonic, beautiful night skies and a phenomenal dinner.  It does not get any better than this!!!

Mara North Conservancy – Offbeat Ndoto (6)

There is nothing quite like arriving at the Mara North airstrip and seeing the smiling face of Joseph who has been my guide for 5 stays at Offbeat properties (3 times at Offbeat Mara and 2 times at Offbeat Ndoto). I always know it is going to be a great time!  We hadn’t even gotten to the camp and he already spotted a cheetah.

On arrival to camp, the new manager Thomas was there to greet me along with Abby, Lucy and Simon. I was worried that Geoffrey, the great mixer of all things alcohol, was off during my stay but Simon said ‘I’ve got you covered’.

For this stay of 6 wonderful nights, I was in Tent 2. The staff had heard I was having a knee issue and judged that the steps of this tent would be easier to navigate (which was correct).  I love these tents. They are huge and with lots of lighting and a pedestal fan which is nice for the middle of the day. As much as I love the wildlife in Mara North, it is also amazing to return to such a beautiful tent, after a fantastic dinner and enjoy the sounds of the night.

During my stay, I met a wonderful honeymooning couple, Seth and Kate. Lots of great conversations during lunch and dinner.

Also at the camp during my stay was Offbeat owner Piers, his nephew Will and Ryan who works with Offbeat.  More enjoyable conversations.

Just like last year, I wanted to be at Offbeat this trip because I wanted to be in the Mara for my birthday.  I didn’t mention it to anyone but Ndoto, the leopard I photographed last year, must have remembered, because on my birthday, she walked right past our vehicle and posed for me to get my favorite photo of the trip. Despite keeping quiet about revealing my birthday, Abby at camp (who I became Facebook friends with while there), saw people commenting about it and a couple of nights after my birthday, she joined me for a surprise dinner on my patio and several of the staff came by with a birthday cake later. So much fun. It was sad to leave camp after such a great stay. Joseph provided me with so many photographic opportunities and enjoyable conversations.  I could not have asked for a better time!

Amboseli – Elephant Garden Camp (3)

Having really enjoyed my stay at Elephant Garden Camp last year, I returned again.  This camp is located within the private Elephant Garden Conservancy, just a short distance outside Amboseli National Park.  For this stay, my guide was camp owner Eric Ole Kalama. Eric met me at the air strip and we headed to camp where I was met by friendly staff faces as well as camp dogs Naju and Maple and a new one Foxy.  They are really entertaining to watch.

After my flight from Mara North, and the change to the warmer Amboseli temperatures, it was great to grab a shower, get settled and then enjoy a delicious vegetarian lunch.  After the mid-day temperatures cool, at 4pm it’s time to have a cool beverage and a snack and then head out to photograph what I came for….. lots and lots of elephants.

There were plenty of elephants this trip from the big tuskers to the small babies.  One thing I noticed this year is there must have been less rainfall prior to my arrival because the dust level was high.  There also seemed to be more tourist vehicles than last year and they seem to think it’s necessary to rush through life and create clouds of dust with their vehicles. Dust can make for challenging photography.  That is one of the reasons I love going out just as the sun is coming up and the dust hasn’t been stirred up. The lighting is phenomenal at this time of day and often Mt. Kilimanjaro is visible.

Another way to make the most of the mornings in the park is to carry a bush breakfast. After dinner the night before, you will be asked what you’d like to have for breakfast. I highly recommend their granola which is put into a jar and you can add yogurt and fresh chopped fruit to it. That, along with African mixed tea is the best!

One morning while in a nearby conservancy, we had the pleasure of seeing Craig, the largest tusked elephant that I had photographed last trip. He is so amazing to watch and his gentle and curious nature make for amazing photos.

While in camp, just off the patio area, is a water area and often big bull Vronsky would come to drink and take a dust bath. I noticed the dogs seemed to enjoy watching him. During my stay, I also enjoyed two special activities. My tour operator Anne at Amazing Memories had arranged a massage for me. Talk about relaxing. Then to top that off, at my last dinner at camp, the entire staff came out smiling, singing and dancing with a birthday cake which we all enjoyed.

Nairobi – Eka Hotel

This is my preferred hotel to stay for a day room prior to my late night flight back to the US.  The staff is always very welcoming. I arrived at the hotel by 10am after an early flight back from Amboseli which was nice to give me more time to pack and relax.  The rooms are very comfortable with fast wi-fi, a great shower, comfy bed and coffee or tea.  One of the reasons I really like this hotel is because there is a Spurs Restaurant here which has great food, at reasonable prices and fast service.  A great place to stay prior to the short drive to the airport for a late night flight.

Traveling with Amazing Memories Safaris

I have traveled with Amazing Memories Safaris for my past six trips.  That says a LOT right there.  Anne and Joseph continue to provide me with fantastic care and guidance.  For each trip, from my initial contact with Anne to let her know when I’m planning to come and where I’d like to stay, it is just so easy.  Communication is always fast and all my questions are always answered.  And yes, even though this was my twelfth trip, there are always questions.  This year’s change was requiring the ETA (Electronic Travel Authorization), similar but different to a visa.

Luckily this year, my flight arrived on time. Anne arranged for an airport assist service which meets you as you arrive off the plane.  Then they assist getting you through immigration, finding your bag on the carousel and communicating with your driver to pick you up.  It is a big help after 18 hours of flight time and a back and knee that were less than cooperative.  Anne and several of her staff greeted me with smiling faces after the long trip.  I knew I was in good hands!

As a solo traveler, I especially appreciate that everything is taken care of for me and I don’t have to worry about a thing. Every lodging that I stayed at was aware of my dietary preferences and allergies and they knew I preferred having my room near the main area.  All my internal flights were arranged for me and monitored for timing.

As a special surprise, at my last camp, I was told Anne had arranged for a relaxing massage for me. You can’t help but relax with a massage, listening to the birds and the sounds of nature. On my last day back in Nairobi, Anne and my trusty driver Joseph 2014 who navigates me through the crazy Nairobi traffic had lunch together at my day hotel. Anne always wants to know how everything on the trip went. My only disappointment for this trip was that I missed seeing Anne’s husband Joseph’s smiling face as he was away. You know what that means? I have to come back!

The Best of the Trip

Any day in Kenya is a great day! Every trip I’ve taken I think I’ve gotten the most amazing photos.  Then there is the next trip and more incredible photo opportunities.  It just doesn’t get old.  What is so special is to go back and be able to photograph a specific animal that I’ve photographed previously. That’s the importance of having such great guides. To my many Kenyan friends who are like family to me, this is why I call Kenya my second home.

The Less than Best of the Trip

Twelve trips to Kenya and still no Honey Badger.  I’m beginning to think they are extinct. Every trip to my happy place has a challenge or two. This trip was the limping knee. I learned after returning home that a replacement is needed. OK, I get that but I’ll say, ‘You are not keeping this old bird down’.